Bern's Cooloola Great Walk.

Getting there

Brisbane to Noosa North Shore

It has been a number of years since Paul and I did multi-day bushwalking, but 2021 was the year for my return. Along with Kay and Jane from my Camino group, I planned to tackle the Cooloola Great Walk... close to home during these times of COVID. Jane and Kay are both experienced Camino-style long distance walkers, but this would be their first extended self-sufficient multi-day bushwalk.

Back in August, I did a solo overnight hike into Kauri Camp, the closest to Rainbow Beach. This was a test-run, as I wanted to see if I would still enjoy the adventure and the 'feel' of bushwalking. I did!

Day 1 - Saturday 02 October 2021

Noosa North Shore to Brahminy Camp - 18km (6hrs)

In the days leading up to the walk, the weather was stormy and showery, so waking to a brilliantly sunny sky for day one was heavenly. My pack was heavier than I wanted but extra water was needed for the anticipated hot weather. We met at the Tewantin ferry, where Kay's friend Mark, who was joining us for the first day and night, drove us across and parked at the trailhead, Arthur Harrold Nature Reserve.

It was already hot when we took off, at 7.45am. Lots of excellent flat walking through areas of tea tree and heath, both low and tall, then out onto the amazing beach.

The colours were dazzling and the tide was low, just right for easy walking.

We picked up our track just to the left of the busy road/sand track by which vehicles enter the beach, to head north. This part of our trail had small ups and downs along a grassy strip that almost looked like a mower had been run over it.

There were kilometres of dead, burnt-out banksias, casuarinas and grass trees, remnants of the fires that tore through this area late in 2019. Some wildflowers to be seen, but we were perhaps a bit late for a full display.

Our morning involved a couple of stops, the first when Jane had a sudden awful feeling that she couldn't remember where she'd put her car keys. (They were later found in Mark's car). We had wonderful glimpses of the ocean, as the track weaved its way along the dunes at the back of the beach. Mostly good track surface but also some areas of soft sand. Many fallen trees across the path, after the last few days of wild weather.

Behind Teewah Village, we had a long lunch break under a shady tree. There was phone reception at this spot, so I sent a message to Paul to let him know that we were well on our way.

After crossing the Teewah Landing track we started climbing, with excellent views across Lake Cootharaba, as we we made our way towards Mt Seawah. Mark and I did the short side trip up Mt Seawah... absolutely worth it for the expansive views.

It was a very hot day and as we approached Brahminy Camp, I drank the last of my 3L of water. We were all happy to arrive and after setting up and re-filling with water from the tank we met in the communal area. This campsite is wonderfully scenic, with views to Lake Cootharaba to the west and to the south-east, Noosa Heads.

Of the four camps, I felt that this one was the best set out, with the tank and composting toilet not too far from both the communal and tent areas. The individual tent sites were lovely. The only uncomfortable part was that the communal area was extremely hot, being in the blazing sun all afternoon... oh, and the scavenging Brush-turkey that rummaged around in each and every campsite, even shifting shoes. Had phone reception from this camp.

Wonderful sunset over the lake and as dusk settled, the mozzies were fierce and this chased us into our tents. Even with feeling tired, stiff and smelly, I had a reasonable first night. I could hear a tiny rodent outside my tent at one stage but Kay was kept awake by one trying to get into her shoe bag.

Day 2 - Sunday 03 October 2021

Brahminy Camp to Dutgee Camp - 21km (7hrs)

Woke early and couldn't believe it when I heard what I thought was rain on my tent. It turned out to be thick fog and big drops of water were falling from the trees above my campsite. It was beautiful to watch the fog lift and reveal the stunning views again. All this wet gear made for a late start, as we tried to dry things before packing.

Mark left us here and headed back to his car.

Jane, Kay and I headed off about 8.25am and it was HOT! Sensational coastal views as we were on very exposed track around and over high dunes.

I found the heat a challenge and struggled to keep up, as Kay set a cracking pace. Our path took us behind big dunes, through gullies and alongside extensive sand areas, then across more high exposed dunes with easterly views to the ocean and to the west, Lake Cootharaba.

After a good break and a welcome downhill section, we found ourselves in a patch of beautiful shaded rainforest. Right at the hottest time of the day, we arrived for our crossing of the Cooloola Sandpatch. We followed the advice of compass bearings to the dead tree and then left in front of the tree line.

As we were heading north, the sand crossing was mostly a climb for us. It was HOT, HOT, HOT with much reflected heat.

The 1km took about 30 mins to cross, with stunning views. The exit from the scorching sand couldn't come quickly enough for me... the closest I've ever come to spontaneous combustion, I think.

It was packs down as we flopped in the shade. Food was hard to face, but I prepared an electrolyte drink which I really needed. A potential disaster occurred when Kay realised that she had already drunk ALL of her 3L of water, and we still had 10km to go! Luckily, Jane had a small spare bottle that she was able to give to Kay. Much blessed downhill walking in mottled shade as we headed toward the flat ground of the Noosa River.

We were keen to get to Dutgee Camp but needing a good break and more water, we decided to have a afternoon rest at Campsite 3, which is one of the many riverside campsites set up for folk paddling on the river. Our goal was to re-fill our water bottles and cool our hot feet in the river. Even though we saw a sign leading us off our track, to Campsite 3, we couldn't find it. After walking for maybe 300m, with no further signage or sight of the camp, we decided to get back to our track and continue on to our camp for the night.

This was a tough last few kilometres, as even though this flat section was easy walking... we were overheated, very tired and low on water. At one stage we stopped at a small creek beside the river and Jane and I scrambled down and wet all our hats, in an effort to cool ourselves.

Finally arrived at camp about 3.30... all EXHAUSTED. This camp was really spread out, with the communal area being a few hundred metres from the water tank and toilet, and the tent sites another few hundred metres off along another small track. The communal area was right beside the river, so lovely dusk views.

Once again, we had phone reception. Paul sent a message to say that tomorrow would be even hotter than today!! Met some interesting folk at this camp. We were all washed-out from the heat and none of us felt much like eating, so a light dinner and into our tents about 6pm. Lots of crickets chirping away. Had a good sleep here.

Day 3 - Monday 04 October 2021

Dutgee Camp to Litoria Camp - 15km (7hrs)

We all woke early and took off across the wide expanse of low heath... quite beautiful, but already warming up and quite humid, even though we left just after 6.30am. Carried about 4L of water today... and drank most of it.

Straight away I felt awful, churning in the tummy and sweating profusely, overheating even though the others felt comfortable in what should have been the cool of the morning. I needed a couple of emergency toilet stops... always important to pack a little trowel.

As we left the plains and started to climb, the rest of the day was a bit of a blur for me, just tried to keep going. I couldn't eat, needed to force myself to keep drinking, was light-headed, struggled for breath and needed many rests... some lying flat out on the track. Thank goodness for Jane, as she was a life-saver, stopping with me on the big hills and encouraging me to have long rests in the shady areas, where we had the occasional breeze.

I was completely spent as we finally arrived at Litoria Camp, which was perched along a ridge line. The communal area, water tank and toilet were near the track, with the tent sites down a hill from there. Once again, the communal area was in the blazing afternoon sun... not good after being so heat affected during the day. Phone reception here, as well.

Kay helped with my tent set-up, then shared her roast chicken meal with me... none of us felt particularly hungry again. I enjoyed this and I think it helped me regain a bit of strength and energy. A blessed cool change, with a breeze, came through as we were eating our dinner. I could see the sunset from my tent... lovely! An extremely windy night with lots of movement in the tree tops. The end of a very tough day.

Day 4 - Tuesday 05 October 2021

Litoria Camp to Kauri Camp - 20.5km (7.5 hrs)

Woke really early again and did a pack up in the still almost dark. I was able to stomach a cup of tea and a Cliff bar for breakfast and we were away by 6.40am. It was a lovely cool start and I felt much better and had a bit more energy. Downhill, at first, through mostly eucalypt forest... we somehow missed the track to see Lake Cooloomera. This was a day of many ups and downs, mostly through lovely shaded forest. Had a good break early on and felt elated that I could eat... more energy to keep going.

Our second break was at a sand road crossing, where we all flopped onto the track and chatted, enjoying the beauty around us. Felt so much better today, though still finding hills a challenge. We met a few walkers heading south who told us that the water tank at Kauri Camp had a problem with a broken, leaking tap. This scared us a bit that there might not be any water there when we arrived.

Approaching Kauri camp the vegetation changed to rainforest, which provided welcome heavy shade.

Kay was excited that her husband, Fuzz, was walking in to meet us for the final night and day of walking. Paul, who was staying at Cooloola Cove, had collected Fuzz at Rainbow Beach and drove him in to Bymiens Picnic Area and then walked with him to Poona Lake before leaving him to find his way to meet us at Kauri Camp. This camp, set in thick vine forest has the communal platforms, toilet and water tank really close together, with the individual tent sites strung out along a narrow path. No phone reception at this camp.

I set up in site 3, which was the site I had back in August. I did a half set up and let the tent air in the sun that was slanting through the trees, whilst I checked out the dodgy water tank. It was leaking and someone had made an excellent bung out of a small stick with a rubber band placed to stop the water. It still leaked but only drips.

Fuzz arrived not long after we settled and Kay got stuck in, helping him with his setup. I had a laugh when I saw that he'd lugged in a 2L cask of red wine. Managed to eat a meal tonight... hooray! Whilst chatting tonight, we realised that even though there were some couples, most of the walkers we had met on the track were women, either solo or in pairs... even two mother/daughter combos.

It was lovely in the forest, though there were many falling tree limbs, with a couple happening not too far from our tents...a bit scary. Some mozzies, but not too bad and also Wompoo Pigeons and Catbirds calling. Feeling really proud of myself, that I came through those couple of bad days, was able to continue on and still enjoy myself. As I climbed into my little tent, I was amazed to be able to hear the distant surf ... it must have been a rough sea, as it was about 3km away. Lots of noisy animal activity near my tent tonight, more falling bits of trees and even a close visit from a scorpion! A fitful and disturbed sleep, and starting to think about being clean and having a comfy bed.

Day 5 - Wednesday 06 October 2021

Kauri Camp to Carlo Sandblow Carpark (Rainbow Beach) - 15.5km ( 5.5 hrs, including an hour at Lake Poona)

Up very early and met Jane in the communal area for breakfast. Tended some blisters on my left foot, luckily only two, not like Kay whose feet had been a bit of a mess for a couple of days. Jane and I were away about 6.45, leaving Kay and Fuzz to have a more leisurely start to the day.

After the initial downhill from Kauri Camp, we made good time on the gentle uphill to Poona Lake (1.5hrs), through more beautiful rainforest. We arrived to find we had it to ourselves... unbelievably peaceful.

I had been anticipating a swim but Jane had said she probably wouldn't. Once she saw the lake and realised that she could be cool for the first time in days, she was in the water before me. It was FANTASTIC! Kay and Fuzz arrived an hour later, just as Jane and I were heading off.

From Poona Lake the track climbed up through the forest and then undulated through, probably my favourite part of the track, amazing strangler figs. Excellent and easy walking through this area.

Had phone reception from where the track crossed the Freshwater Road. This sand track is the access point for 4WDs to reach the beach. I messaged Paul to tell him we had about 4km to go. Kay and Fuzz caught Jane and I at a final rest stop and we walked the last few kms together. This is a very hilly section through scrubby bush, with a couple of steep climbs to get to Carlo Sandblow.

It was an exhilarating feeling to cross the sandblow with its stunning views to the ocean.

A couple of stops for group photos and suddenly we were at the carpark, just after 12 noon. Paul was there with a bottle of cold, fizzy water and 4 cups... so nice!

We parted ways there, with the others heading back to Tewantin to collect Jane's car and Paul and I heading to our caravan at Cooloola Cove. I was aching all over, tired both mentally and physically and very fragile. A big burger and chips for dinner, just what I needed.

What a challenging, yet still amazing experience!