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Grand High Tops Circuit Walk.

Breadknife & Grand High Tops Circuit - Warrumbungle NP

Thursday 22 September 2016

13km - 5 hrs return

The Warrumbungle NP was our first multi-night stop on our 11-week road trip south in September 2016. It was a much-anticipated visit, as we'd driven along the Newell Highway numerous times and had seen the Siding Spring Observatory off in the distance, and we had heard of excellent bushwalking in the park. Each time, we promised that one day we would get there. We set up camp for a few days at the scenic and well-appointed Camp Blackman. The views to the Breadknife and 'tops' were outstanding.

Campsite views

After a rainy (and slow) beginning to the day, we decided to do our planned walk anyway. We got a later than normal start, leaving Pincham Carpark, under clearing skies, around 9.45am.

Bern at start of track

Initially the walk, on the Pincham Trail, was on well-formed track, except for the first two creek crossings. These were flowing quickly after the overnight rain and required some fancy footwork over submerged stepping stones. The walk in this section followed Spirey Creek, through a forested valley.

Paul crossing Spirey Creek

There were a couple of new bridges crossing the creek and much evidence of the devastating bushfires of 2013.

Hillside of regrowth

Along the way we caught glimpses of where we were heading, with rocky spires and jagged ridges appearing through the trees.

View from the track

We even encountered four feral goats grazing alongside the track, as well as a group of large kangaroos. We managed to get a good look at each group before they scarpered off as we approached.

Goats beside the track

After about 3km, we took the short 300m (ret) detour to scramble up to Spirey View, which afforded an excellent vista across to Belougery Spire ( 1057m) and the Breadknife.

Paul taking in the view

From there, the track started to climb steadily on the appropriately named Spirey Ramp. We had our morning tea break at Wilson's Rest, and once again had views, through the trees, to Belougery Spire.

Bern heading up the paved path

The scenic track continued steeply upwards on pavers until we came to a picnic table at the side of the track, and a formidable flight of steps heading ever upwards. There were large sections with newly constructed metal framework, with areas of the more traditional wooden frames further up.

We had amazing views of rocky outcrops off in all directions.

Wonderful view

There were more steps, and more stunning views.

We could see forever

These never-ending steps brought us to the base of the Breadknife, where we got a bit confused, as the track markings were not at all clear. The track became rougher as we climbed. It got much windier and also very chilly. For a period of time, the track shirted the edge of an enormous volcanic wall that is the base of the Breadknife. It has an almost tessellated appearance - very impressive.

Amazing wall

The final climb up to Lugh's Throne (960m), the summit of the Grand High Tops, was quite steep, with a number of steps. Other parts of the track required a bit of scrambling over rough, rocky sections.

Paul on the way up

By now, the wind was howling and bitterly cold, so we stopped to rug up and put on a few more layers. We took in the stunning view of Belougery Spire and The Breadknife in one direction and Crater Bluff (1049m) in the other.

Belougery Spire and The Breadknife

Crater Bluff

We elected to return a different way, so headed across a number of stone slabs before descending steeply through forest to the Dagda Saddle, and our turn-off via the Dagda Shortcut. This more sheltered part of the walk was delightful, with some views and a gradual downhill slope. We encountered one other couple on this section of the track, the only others walkers we saw all day.

Another ancient rock face

Balor Hut was our planned lunch stop, but it was most uninspiring on such a windy day, with little shelter. Balor Hut is a locked hut, but can be booked to either stay inside or camp beside. Stopped for a short toilet break and then pushed on. Remembering the picnic table at the start of the steep steps, we headed there.

The never-ending steps

Before we knew it, we were there and Paul got the Jetboil going for a warming cup of tea. We rugged up again, as the chilly wind had once more found us. Had a wonderful view from our lunch spot.

Scenic lunch stop

Our walk back to the car was pleasant, though the relentless downhill on the paved section saw Paul develop bad cramps in his quads. A few stretches fixed that. It was lovely walking in the sheltered sections alongside the creek. We both enjoyed this wonderful walk!

Creek flowing well after the rain

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