Bern's Sections of the Larapinta Walk.

Getting there

Brisbane to Alice Springs

A couple of months before, I was invited to join a friend on her Larapinta Trail end-to-end adventure. After much research, I elected not to go, as the friends she was walking with had only a 14 days window, and I knew I would not be able to complete the walk in that time frame. Instead, Paul offered to be my support crew to enable me to do some of the sections as day (or overnight) walks. At the end of April, we packed our caravan and took 3 weeks travelling, via outback Queensland, to get to Alice Springs. My friend Jane, had managed to contact me twice from the trail and we organised a catch-up at Simpson's Gap, where I would join her group for their final 2 days. They had walked west to east, so their final section ended at the Old Telegraph Station, just north of Alice Springs.

Thursday 19 - 21 May 2022

Section 1- Simpsons Gap to Old Telegraph Station, 26.6km

Alice Springs to Simpson's Gap

After a few days set up in our caravan at a friend's place near Alice Springs, I was ready to go. Paul and I drove to Simpson's Gap mid-afternoon and took a walk to explore the stunning and peaceful gap. We then found our way to the walkers' camp where I waved good-bye to Paul and he headed back to town.

II was thrilled to see that Jane and her friends, Lindy and Lou, had already arrived. Jane had met Lindy and Lou whilst walking the Camino, in Spain, a few years ago and they had remained good friends. Jane and Lou were lying in the shelter with their legs up the wall. Lindy was trying to call ahead to Alice Springs to book an extra night's stay, as they were finishing the walk a day early.

This scenic walkers camp has a 3-sided shelter (with 2 big platforms and a storage shelf unit with doors), 2 water tanks and a composting toilet. The nearby main car parking area for the gap also has a toilet block, along with rubbish bins. There was no solar charging station here, though most of the other camps had one. There was reasonable internet and a mobile booster dish down in the carpark.

After chatting, I set up my tent with the walls of the gap rearing up beyond.

I thoroughly enjoyed my evening, hearing tales of the trail, getting to know the others and sharing some music. The walls of the gap looked amazing as they glowed in the afternoon light. Early to bed for all, though I did venture out to have a late look at the sky FULL of stars.

Friday 20 May 2022

Simpsons Gap to Wallaby Gap - 12 km (3hrs 10mins)

Up early the next morning, waking to a very wet tent fly after a heavy dew. Jane and her friends had not put their tent flies on, so they and their gear were somewhat damp inside their screen tents when they woke. Evidently this was the first dew fall they'd had, spending most nights either sleeping without tents under the stars or using only the flyscreen part of their tents.

Lindy and Lou very kindly said they'd have a sleep-in and slow start to the day, which allowed Jane and I to walk together on my first day. We headed off about 6.45, light but well before sunrise... it was wonderful to be walking with Jane again, she is excellent company.

After a quick look towards the gap, we crossed the dry bed of the Roe River and climbed gently to Hat Hill Saddle. Super views of Rungurtjirba Ridge along this section. After a chilly start, we soon warmed up as the sun appeared.

We bypassed the track to Fairy Spring but we did venture along the side trip to Scorpion Pool, about 400m off the track. This provided a cool and shady spot for a break..

It was then fairly easy walking to Wallaby Gap. We met a few folk walking in the other direction, just starting their adventure, and Jane was able to provided up-to-date information about tricky river crossings and the trail in general. We arrived at Wallaby Gap Campsite late morning and it was really HOT! This campsite, set at the base of tomorrow's climb, has a small open-sided shelter (which only provided shade, directly below, in the middle of the day), 1 water tank, 2 wooden platforms out in the blazing sun and a toilet that the girls said was the worst of the whole trail. The shelter also had a mad willy wagtail which dive-bombed us relentlessly, snapping its beak.

Jane and I set up our tents (many thorns at this campsite, so watch where you set up) and then ate our lunch under the shelter. Lindy and Lou arrived a couple of hours later and laid their wet gear to dry in the sun. Many walkers stopped at this small campsite to have their lunch, after walking out from the Old Telegraph Station on the first day of their adventure. Lots of wonderful conversations and gear/food talk.

During the afternoon, an organised walking group stopped in whilst I was resting near my tent and Jane and her friends were overjoyed to be given some lovely cool watermelon. Later in the day, the 4 of us walked the 600m return alongside a dry creek-bed to the small waterhole in the gorge at Wallaby Gap. It was cool and shady, so we sat a while to enjoy.

Another early night, after a superb sunset. We were the only ones staying at Wallaby Gap, though a number of planes went overhead and we could hear some vehicle noise from nearby commercial group campsite. There was very good phone reception here.

Saturday 21 May 2022

Wallaby Gap to Old Telegraph Station - 14.6km (3hr 40mins)

Up at 5.20, a quick pack-up and breakfast in the dark, then away by 6.30... still not sunrise, so walked by headlight. It was quite a climb out of Wallaby Gap, with Lou setting the pace. We had a short muesli bar stop along the ridge top and then pushed on. On Euro Ridge we encountered a fellow racing along with a very tiny pack... more on him in a later entry.

The sunrise was stunning, especially in the peaceful setting. Lindy and Lou set a cracking pace. Understandably, my walking companions were all VERY keen to arrive at the end, after 14 days on the trail.

Euro Ridge provided excellent views but the numerous high points proved to be challenging walking... lots of ups and downs, with the track sometimes extremely close to the edge of a big drop-off.

Down from the ridge, we traverse dry undulating country before crossing the Central Australia Railway tracks and then under the Sturt Highway at the Geoff Moss Bridge. I struggled to keep up with the pace of my 3 trail-hardened companions and requested another short break in the welcome shade under the bridge. I also contacted Paul so he knew of our progress... he was to be our pick-up vehicle.

The 5km from there was gently undulating but really hot. We crossed paths with a number of large commercial groups, small groups and pairs, looking very keen and clean at the start of their treks. As we neared the Old Telegraph Station, we stopped at a small cemetery before seeing Paul awaiting for us at the end/start trailhead.

I zoomed ahead to take some photos of the group of 3 completing their amazing adventure... legends. Thanks to Jane, Lindy and Lou for including me for their final couple of days.

Ormiston Gorge

After the amazing adventure from Simpsons Gap, Paul and I shifted our caravan to Ormiston Gorge, where we set up in the small camp area. It was very dry and dusty, with everyone quite close to each other but still a fantastic spot from which to walk and explore. There was a facility block with a couple of toilets and a hot shower, an amazing gorge to swim in and also a popular kiosk where walkers gathered. Ormiston Gorge is favoured as a rest day stop, especially for walkers heading west.

Wednesday 25 May 2022

Ghost Gum Trail and Ormiston Pound - 10.5km

Had planned a Larapinta Trail section walk today but woke to extremely windy conditions and didn't feel 100%, so decided to do some walks close to camp. Paul and I elected to do a short walk, the Ghost Gum Trail, and headed up the climb (lots of steps) to Ghost Gum lookout, enjoying the view straight down into the gorge and its glorious pool. Stunning rock formations in the gorge walls, too.

From the lookout we headed down, ending up at the water's edge in the gorge, a super spot for a break.

After recent heavy rain, the gorge held quite a bit of water during our visit. The Ormiston Pound Loop continues on from here by crossing the creek but after watching a young couple negotiating their way across we decided that it was little too deep for us and turned back to retrace our steps back to the kiosk.

Once there,we decided to continue off in the other direction toward Ormiston Pound. In hindsight, we should have stopped in for a cool drink and to replenish our water supply as by then the day was really warming up.

We headed along the Larapinta Trail for a short distance, alongside the road, and then followed the Ormiston Pound markers, away from the creek (the creek along this section was a dry sandy creek-bed with the occasional pool). As we climbed, we caught our first sight of the majestic Mt Sonder away in the distance.

We eventually arrived at a saddle from which we climbed to the Ormiston Pound Lookout, where we were absolutely blown away by the scene that opened in front of us... a vast expanse of flat country surrounded by a range circling its edges. STUNNING! We stopped there to take in the view and have morning tea. Even with no shade and an over-abundance of annoying flies, we didn't want to leave such an awe-inspiring spot.

Our water supply was running very low, so we headed back the way we came, rather than continue down to the pound floor.

Back to that fellow I saw on Euro Ridge on Saturday morning, the one tearing along with a tiny pack. As we walked back alongside the road, we saw him on the road, still going at a great pace. Never got to talk with him, as by the time we arrived back near the kiosk, he had just finished filling his water bottles and was racing off along the trail again. In 5 days, he had walked 10 of the 12 sections...amazing. We arrived back early in the afternoon, very hot and very thirsty... headed for a swim in the gorge and then rested and re-hydrated.

Thursday 26 May 2022

Section 10 - Ormiston Gorge to Glen Helen, 13.5km

Plan for today, an early start to walk to Finke River Campsite and then continue on to meet Paul, with the car, near Glen Helen.

Away about 6.30am, well before sunrise. As I passed through the walkers camp, I chatted with a fellow who had come all the way from the Old Telegraph Station only to have to pull out, a few days before the end, due to troubles with his knees... a disappointment. I could see other walkers preparing their packs for the day ahead.

I loved this peaceful early morning section, with beautiful subdued lighting and wonderful views. I also loved the free feeling of being out on the track on my own.

Lots of undulations, small hidden valleys stunning trees and a dry creek crossing along this part of the trail.

The 5km to Ormiston/ Hilltop Lookout took me about 1.5hrs and I LOVED every minute of it. On top of the hill, I stopped for a good break to have snack and take in the stunning surroundings. I was joined by a couple, Chris and Mel, whom I'd met two days before when they arrived at Ormiston Gorge campsite for their rest day.

Down from this high point, the trail passed through undulating terrain. Along this section, I met a number of groups heading in the other direction... quite busy on the track. Some groups were the commercial operators and one was a fund-raising group. Crossed a very stony creek bed before crossing Ormiston Creek. It had much water and required a bit of a detour to avoid wet feet.

Checked out the Finke River campsite and its facilities were similar to Simpson Gap, where I'd overnighted the week before. A really pleasant setting, with the river quite close. This took me 3 hrs from when I started.

I stopped for another snack, sitting in a dry sandy part of the riverbed, joining Chris and Mel again, as they cooked a solid early lunch for themselves. As I took off, I managed to negotiate my way across without getting wet feet until I lost the track for a short while and ended up knee-deep in a small crossing. I went in so quickly and unexpectedly, I was lucky that I didn't topple right in.

Continued on after emptying the water from my squelchy boots and wringing-out my soaked socks. Not far past the river, I took the turn for Glen Helen, following a little sign in the middle of nowhere.

Heading towards Glen Helen, this track was never too far from the Finke River. I was amazed to see caravans and a campsite of small tents set up on the other side of a large semi-permanent waterhole.

This area has a couple of low rocky ridges coming in towards the river. At the first one the track markers lead to a narrow gap to negotiate your way around the base of the ridge.

I had arranged to meet Paul at the second of these rocky ridges, called the Window in the Rock. It is a limestone ridge, with the track passing through the largest of the arches. As I approached, I could see that it was stunning.

From one of the 'windows', I could see Paul heading in from the other side. We found a cool, shady spot to have a short break, before walking out to the car.

We continued on more flat country to where Paul had parked the car, alongside the road near Glen Helen. Paul had some difficulty finding the start of this track, as it's about 0.5km from the Glen Helen turn-off, where there was a small sign on the side of the road. We took a drive up to the Mt Sonder Lookout before heading back to the caravan for mochas from the kiosk and a toasted sandwich.

Saturday 28 May 2022

Section 8 - Serpentine Gorge to Serpentine Chalet Dam - 16.5km (6hrs 15mins)

This is the section that I most wanted to do... mainly to see the view from Counts Point! Paul decided he'd join me for today's walk, so initially we'd planned to leave from Serpentine Gorge carpark then walk to Counts Point and back, but our day didn't end up like that.

Woke to another fiercely windy morning. Got organised in the dark and did the 30 min drive from our Ormiston Gorge campsite, to the Serpentine Gorge carpark. Started our walk, in the semi-dark, around 6.30am. Another couple of day walkers took off just ahead of us.

After initially weaving through some low hills, with wonderful views towards the gorge, the track started to climb steeply up the Heavitree Range, passing a small isolated campsite at the appropriately named Eagle's Landing. We both required many rests to catch our breath on this climb.

Stunning views as the sun came up, with us surrounded by rows of mountain ranges.

After about 4km, we stopped for a break and tried to find a sheltered spot but the wind was wild and we got quite cold. Paul made the decision to head back to the car, suggesting that I continue on to Counts Point and then to Serpentine Chalet Dam, where he'd meet me after driving there. Excited at the prospect of some solo walking I took off across the high exposed ridge top, nearly being blown away by the wind.

Stunning views to parallel mountain ranges, with the track quite close to the edge in places. I encountered the couple from the carpark and stopped for a chat. They had already been out to Counts Point and were heading back to their car. I LOVED this section of the walk... felt like I was on top of the world.

Eventually I arrived at the Counts Point junction, around 7km from the start, and eagerly took the track. This area has a couple of tiny clearings where the rocks and stones had been shifted aside, just big enough for a tent. My friend Jane had spent the night here on her walk.

Taking about 15 mins, the 700m walk out to see the view here is not to be missed. The view that awaited me was another stunner, with parallel ranges heading off into the distance. WOW!

There was a bench seat there, so I sat for a maybe 20 minutes taking in the view... and I had it all to myself.

There were a few tiny cleared campsites here, too.

Reluctantly left the view and headed back to the track junction where I stopped for a snack. Had a long chat with a solo female walker, who was walking the whole trail over 20 days and also a middle-aged couple who mentioned that they'd been looking out for me as they'd spoken with Paul on his return to the car. In the distance we could see a large commercial group heading our way, so they raced off towards Counts Point before they had to share it with so many others.

From the track junction I took the track heading towards Serpentine Chalet Dam. As soon as I headed off I was out of the wild wind and conditions really warmed up. Coming off the Heavitree Range was a very steep descent... my poor knees. I took things fairly carefully, zig-zagging down into Lomandra Gully.

About half way down, I was passed by what looked like a mother-daughter couple zooming along... real mountain goats. They raced past without so much as a greeting. I did have a chat with a young very fit-looking shirtless fellow coming from the opposite direction, bounding up the steep rocky path, looking forward to seeing Counts Point. There were a number of small tent clearings at various places along the track, including one perched beside a cliff edge, as well as numerous view points.

All along this section of the Larapinta Trail, both on the ridge line on top and on this descent, I saw a number of different rocks that showed evidence of ancient water marks. These fascinated me.

After crossing a dry, rocky creek-bed at the base of Lomandra Gully the walking got much easier as I made my way through mulga woodland, crossing a number of low ridges and dry creek-beds. During this approx. 4km section I caught up to and passed the mother of the mother-daughter pair who had raced past me up on the slopes. She looked to be struggling... a few days later we saw her again at Ormiston Gorge, limping back from the shower with feet that looked to be torn apart with dreadful blisters.

I was weary and hot but made good time, arriving at the Serpentine Chalet Dam campsite right about when I told Paul I'd be there. He was happily perched on the platform inside the camp shelter being entertained by the very bold resident mouse. After a short break, we took the 1km dusty vehicle track out to the carpark.

This was an absolutely thrilling day for me.

The day before, we had driven in to the this carpark, about 2.5km from Larapinta Drive, along a rough 4WD track. The track passed a number of national park campsites suitable for car camping... nice and remote but mostly exposed, dry and dusty. We walked the 1km in to the campsite and then the 200m or so to the old concrete dam wall. Well worth a look.