Overland Track Walk.

Getting there

Sunday 18 October 2009

...and the weeks leading up to it.

Our planning for The Overland Track started 3 years ago during our long trip through Tassie, when we did many day walks at each end of the track and fell in love with the area. Plans were made to walk the track during our Tassie trip in May this year, but that didn't happen, so we decided to do a 'fly in and out' trip specifically to walk the Overland Track. After checking long range weather and rain charts we decided on the week of 18‐25 October.

The weeks leading up to our walk were spent planning, booking flights and accommodation and organising gear. One useful purchase was of 2 very large duffle bags in which to stow our backpacks for air travel. Our final days were spent measuring and packaging food, packing and re-packing our packs. Our final pack weights (including 2L of water) were approximately 23kg for Paul and 17kg for Bern. Our morning walks around our neighbourhood took on a whole new look as we donned packs filled with novels, phone books and hand weights.

We took off early on Sunday 18 October for our taxi ride to the airport and flight to Launceston. All went to plan and we were met at the other end by Paul Grigg of Outdoor Recreational Transport for our drive to Cradle Valley. We had a stop at Deloraine for some last minute groceries and lunch.

As we approached Cradle Valley our hearts both sank a little as a gentle rain began to fall. We'd booked ourselves in at Waldheim cabins for our 'night before' and were happy with our tiny room with its warm heater and excellent views.

A wet and very cold walk down to the track head at Ronny Creek scored us some super wombat sightings. Our evening was spent watching a low misty cloud roll in and completely hide the view. It was still like that in the morning. Check out this cheeky currawong on our windowsill!

Day 1 - Monday 19 October 2009

Cradle Valley to Waterfall Valley - 10.5 km (6 hrs 15 mins)

Both of us woke with great anticipation and a keenness to get on the track. We signed in wearing full wet-weather gear, as the cloud was low with light but steady rain.

It wasn't long before the rain eased and we over-heated enough to have one of our numerous wardrobe changes.

The walk took us via Crater Lake and finally up to Marion's Lookout. Having been up the steep chain-assisted ascent a couple of times before, we were in no doubt that this would be the steepest pinch on the track and both gave a cheer as we made it to the top, albeit with much puffing and grunting.

From here we encountered large drifts of snow.

The sky had cleared and we had a superb view of Cradle Mountain. Having climbed to the summit before, we elected to by-pass it this time. We were glad, as we later heard that it was very dangerous with many deep drifts of icy snow with hidden 'holes' below.

We had an early lunch at Kitchen Hut, amongst the currawongs.

The walk on towards Waterfall Valley included some excellent views of Cradle Mountain, with Barn Bluff appearing out of the clouds. Barn Bluff would dominate the sky line for the next couple of days. We could also see to the south, Mt Ossa and the other mountains and valleys we would encounter later in the week. The descent into Waterfall Valley was steep and rough but the valley itself was beautiful with amazing views surrounding it. Due to the weather we had decided that we would stay in the hut rather than pitch our tent, but the main hut was pretty full and with the heater going, extremely warm.

We settled on the tiny heater-less historic hut and were joined by some excellent hut mates in Dinah and Judy, two Tassie ladies, Thibault a mad Frenchman and Robert from Sweden. On his arrival Thibault wondered where the hot showers were and his only comment on being told that there were none (but he could stand under the freezing waterfall at our door) was, what would he do if he met the 'girl of his life' while on the track. He was to give us many good laughs over the next few days.

We had a wonderful afternoon and night, including Thibault producing some putridly rotten chicken from his back pack and being banished from the hut and then finding that he had a 3kg bag of oranges as part of his food supply. He also had a large glass bottle of pasta sauce, 3 large tins of baked beans, a tin of corn, a glass bottle of jam, 2 large wheels of camembert and a loaf of white bread...amongst other food. No wonder his pack was so heavy. (Paul and I had just less than 8kg of food for the whole trip, for the two of us!) Over the course of the next few days Thibault was amazed that the tale of his oranges travelled the length of the track and people he encountered along the way knew of him and his oranges. The track became a very small world. There was some food swapping going on and we were lucky enough to score one of the lovely fresh oranges. We had a peaceful night, missing all of the drama in the large hut where one walker was so ill that he had to be airlifted out the next day.

Lots more people on the track than we had expected. A great first day!

Day 2 - Tuesday 20 October 2009

Waterfall Valley to Lake Windermere‐9km ( 4 hrs 15 mins)

Day 2 dawned in Waterfall Valley with beautiful sunlight but a chilly breeze.

Our pack-up seemed to take ages but once away we were very happy.

An excellent section along a cliff edge was made all the more exciting as the morning's breeze had stiffened into a very strong wind. Wonderful views back to Barn Bluff and on towards the Pelion region.

Dropped our packs at the Lake Will side track and ventured along the narrow boardwalk. Wind very cold and gusty, with Paul twice being blown off the track...both of us starting to feel a bit motion sick due to being pushed about so much by the wind.

Back onto the main track and a bit of a plod, mostly uphill getting buffeted by the wind. Sensational scenery of plains dotted with numerous small lakes and amazing mountains in the distance. Last climb was up a rocky hillside, then a steep downhill to Lake Windermere. Too windy to eat lunch by the lake, so pushed on up the hill to the hut. A few people there, including Thibault and Robert and two Tassie nurses, Karen and Sheila. Many more were to follow, including a group of 10 local women of a more mature age, with the oldest being 79!!! We had heard the rumour of the 'oldies' and were amazed to see that it was true. The 79 year old told us that the group does the walk each year and sadly, the 82 year old in their group didn't start this year as she had hurt foot whilst training.

Our decision to set up our tent was a good one in that regard, as the hut was fairly cosy once everyone arrived for the night. The group included 3 Irish lads and a Liverpool couple. Our night was windy and we were a bit cold in the tent. Being on the wooden tent platform we got much air up from underneath and the wind seemed to sneak in under our fly as the cables holding it held the ends up rather than down.

We did our living in the hut and shared a table with our hut-mates from the previous night. Things got quite noisy for a while as the various groups chatted and went about preparing food and cups of tea. We left our packs inside the hut during the night as we had heard tales of animals foraging for food in packs left near tents. Had some rain during the night.

Day 3 - Wednesday 21 October 2009

Lake Windermere to Pelion Hut‐14.5 km ( 6hrs 30 mins)

This was to be our longest day in distance and we woke early to get a good start.

There was light rain and this caused us to do an odd pack-up where I stayed in the tent for ages stuffing sleeping bags, liners and pillows into bags while Paul ferried other bits and pieces up to the hut. We then lifted the tent up and dried it out on the hut veranda. The weather continued to be a bit foul and we had a few changes of wardrobe before we even got out the door. In hindsight I should have worn my full wet-weather gear, as once out the door and into the rain and wind I got very cold and had to stop on the track to strip down and add extra warm layers. Frozen fingers were the order of the day...even in gloves.

Amazing moorland scenery this morning, though not able to fully enjoy it due to the driving rain. Some respite at the Forth Valley lookout where we were able to get out of the wind. The sun even shone for a few moments. Great view too. The older ladies told us that there was mobile reception at the track junction, so Paul sent a text to my sister (who was our safety contact) and I had a chat with my mum.

Continued on through moorland areas and dense mossy forests with continued wind and rain.

We then started a long downhill section that was tough on the knees, especially as the track was mostly slippery tree roots and rocks. Eventually the rain eased and we were able to stop for lunch in a small clearing where we caught a bit of sunlight. Through this section we kept a close eye out for leeches...saw and picked up none. I react badly to leech bites, so we are generally vigilant in areas where they might be.

We reached Frog Flats, the lowest point on the walk, at about 1:15pm and then started the relentless plod uphill. Once again the track was hard work, being rough and slippery with lots of mud and we had numerous stops for lollies, rests and wardrobe changes. Our spirits lifted as the track levelled out and we hit some planking and open plains...and finally the hut!

Greatly relieved to arrive at New Pelion Hut mid afternoon, both of us weary and cold. We had taken about 6.5 hours...our Swedish friend, Robert, had walked it in 3hrs 40 mins...but then he was almost jogging. An amazingly large hut designed to sleep 60 people, verandas all around, a large living area and multi rooms for bunks. Once warmed up we felt much better and were able to be sociable. There was lots of spirited conversation and good laughs. Paul helped the young couple from Liverpool, who had borrowed a Trangia stove for the trip but had not been shown how to use it properly.They were very thankful.

Excellent views of the nearby Mount Oakleigh in the afternoon sunlight, also of the tops of Cradle Mountain and Barn Bluff far in the distance. Nice and warm inside tonight, though the double sleeping platform was a bit narrow for two. Still, my best sleep yet.

Day 4 - Thursday 22 October 2009

Pelion Hut to Kia Ora Hut ‐ 11.5 km ( 5 hrs 50 mins)

Today dawned crystal clear and frosty ‐ a glorious morning. We had originally thought to have 2 nights at Pelion Hut and do a shorter day walk on our 'rest' day but due to the beautiful weather we decided to push on. Today was the day with the best views, we'd been told, and we wanted to take advantage of the clear conditions.

The walk took us through forest and more open areas, over numerous small creeks and finally onto a steep climb of about 1.5km up to Pelion Gap. Since day one on the Cradle Plateau this was the track high point and the view that met us was mind-blowingly beautiful.

Pelion Gap leads up to Tassie's highest mountain, Mt Ossa (1617m). We had hopes of scaling this, but there was far too much icy snow for us and we elected to do the initial part of the walk, as far as the saddle past Mt Doris.

We sat for ages at the gap where wooden platforms have been provided for just that activity ‐ also to leave packs for the big climb. While there we met a young woman travelling on her own, from the opposite direction. We thought she was French, others thought she was Italian but she was actually from the Israeli army. She was keen to head up the mountain and we were lucky enough to see her start her walk up and across the steep snowy slopes, far in the distance, as we rounded the side of Mt Doris.

The walk we did was wonderful and we sat for ages just taking in the views in every direction. We had marvellous views back to Cradle Mt and Barn Bluff as well as scenes, to the south, of the Du Cane Range and beyond.

The whole hillside was covered in cushion plant gardens with tiny creeks flowing through them ‐ very pretty.

A long and relaxed lunch was had in the sun back at the track junction ‐ shared with Robert, Dinah and Judy. This would be the last we saw of Robert, as he did the Mt Ossa walk as a day trip and then returned to Pelion Hut. The currawongs were plentiful here and each time someone left a pack they would investigate, hoping for a feed. We had heard that they undo zippers on packs and will not hesitate to peck into them. We witnessed this very thing!

We pushed on towards the night's stopping place at Kia Ora Hut. This hut was situated in a very scenic spot with a creek and waterfall nearby and wondrous mountain views in all directions. Thibault had left us a message in the hut book as he had raced on ahead to complete his walk in his allotted time. His message reminded us to eat oranges! One of our first jobs today was a splash in the creek. Needless to say, it was FREEZING cold and our feet ached in the water, but we felt like new afterwards.

This was a wonderful night spent in good company including our regular evening companions of Dinah and Judy, Karen and Sheila, the 3 Irish lads and the couple from Liverpool. Sleeping platforms were VERY communal but somehow we all managed a reasonable sleep even with Karen's space blanket rustling inside her sleeping bag all night. (Her remedy for cold feet).

Day 5 - Friday 23 October 2009

Kia Ora Hut to Bert Nichol's Hut ‐ 11.5 km (7 hrs 40 mins)

Good walking today and a shorter track distance but with a number of excellent side trips to do. The first was a stop at Du Cane historic hut, originally built as a winter retreat for animal trappers and then as a stop-over for hikers.

The most amazing part of this short stop was the loo. What's this?

It's the loo. An experience, as Paul had to use it!

Took the turn-off for D'Alton and Fergusson Falls, both of which were wonderful. Amazing to see the volume of water coming over the falls. Both are on the Mersey River which ends up at the sea in Devonport. Some steep scrambling required to get down to the falls, but worth the effort.

Back onto the main track, we then left packs at the junction to Hartnett Falls. These are reputed to be the best falls on the track and we were keen to see them. Stood right at the top of the falls beside where the water tumbles over the edge ‐ amazing feeling there and excellent views right down the gorge. We then followed the track down onto the river bank and scrambled along the rock ledges to get as close as possible to the falls. I could feel the energy of the water as it roared over the falls. A beautiful spot.

From here we ascended the final big climb up to Du Cane Gap and down the other side heading for Windy Ridge and Bert Nichol's Hut.

We arrived about 4pm to find Karen settled in there already and the Liverpool couple having a late snack, about to race off to meet the Irish lads at the next hut before dark. The other ladies came in not long after and for a while we thought we'd be having the large and brand new hut to ourselves for the night.

Late in the afternoon a small group of high school kids came in, 10 with 2 adults, on their first night, heading north to finish at Cradle Mountain. The kids all piled into one room to sleep and did their eating and activities outside. Besides the spirited conversations and eating/sharing of extra lollies and chocolates by Paul and myself and the 4 Tassie ladies, this was a very quiet night and the best sleep I had on the track. Very windy and cold outside tonight ‐ easy to see how Windy Ridge got its name.

This new hut has caused much controversy with about $1.5m being spent on it and the bushwalkers hating it. The hut book was full of scathing comments from disgruntled and dissatisfied users. It seemed pretty nice to me, but most complaints seems to stem from the lack of forethought to do with winter time and heating.

Day 6 - Saturday 24 October 2009

Bert Nichol's Hut to Narcissus Point ‐ 9.5 km (3 hrs) and on to Derwent Bridge

Woke early to a cold, windy and drizzly day. The walk to the loo was an adventure in itself.

The other 4 got away early as they had plans to catch the 1pm ferry from Narcissus Point across Lake St Clair to Cynthia Bay, thus finishing their walk. Paul and I took a more leisurely approach, as we were planning to stay on at Narcissus Hut for the night and catch the ferry the next day.

We were sad to leave this hut, as it was a warm and comfortable haven.

This section of the track was lovely and the bush was very different from what we'd seen in the higher altitudes. Undulating country and quite rough and rocky, every now and then we'd come out onto button grass plains and stretches of boardwalk over boggy areas. The morning continued to be cold and windy and we walked through a number of rain showers - and even some sun.

We made good time arriving at Narcissus Hut about noon, intending to have some lunch, wave the others off at the jetty and then settle in for the afternoon. The weather really started to close in with steady rain and Paul and I made the sudden decision to catch the ferry with the others - if we could fit in.

A call via the ferry contact phone saw us on, so it was a quick walk down to the jetty and we were away over a very bumpy Lake St Clair. Our walk was abruptly over but we had a wonderful night in lieu.

Judy and Dinah had told us all along that their husbands were to pick them up and they were staying the night at the Derwent Bridge Hotel. That's what we ended up doing. Had a nice room there and a wonderful shower and then joined the others for some great conversation and an excellent meal. My only dilemma was, that I didn't have any clean clothes to wear after I got clean myself.(Our transport man having kept our duffle bags with our flying clothes and extra clean stuff) It was a matter of finding the least smelly items and donning those. Paul still had a clean set of thermals and pants so he was set.

Felt justified in our decision as the rain continued to fall all afternoon and into the night.

Getting Home - Sunday 25 October 2009 and Monday

Derwent Bridge to Evandale... and back to Brisbane

Today dawned with a light sprinkling of snow - glad to be inside. Paul Grigg, our transport once again, collected us at about 11am and we took off back towards Launceston. We went via the lakes area and Midlands. We had numerous stops for views but the bitingly cold wind chased us back into the bus pretty fast. Our final Tassie night was spent in Evandale, selected for its proximity to the airport. We stayed at Hammers B&B and it was just delightful - a lovely unit, clean and comfy and at a good price.

An afternoon stroll saw us admiring magnificent gardens, a riot of colours. I especially liked the thriving lavender bushes and the still blossoming tulips. Everything looked so green and lush. We had a laugh to ourselves, as we were well rugged-up and the locals were getting about in shorts and t-shirts.

Ate a wonderful dinner at the local pub and then collapsed for the night.

Neil, the owner of the B&B, dropped us at the airport the next morning, but we had a huge wait as our flight was delayed about 1.5 hours. The flight itself was very turbulent so we both felt a bit sick once home.

Arriving home always means lots of unpacking, washing and cleaning of gear.

A wonderful adventure and now we're looking for the next one.

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