Overland Track - Arm River Walk

Introduction

December 2015

Earlier this year Paul's sister, Cheryl, asked if we'd like to do a Tasmanian walk with her. Being a first time hiker, she was keen to try the Overland Track, with Cradle Huts. Thinking that our big pack days were over due to Paul's back problems, we jumped at the chance to get back to the wilderness, but be able to carry lighter packs. This was our first 'glamping' experience...and we loved it.

Day 1 - Tuesday 08 December 2015

Waldheim to Barn Bluff Hut - 12km - 7 hours

We woke to a gloomy day, but were bursting with excitement as we met our two lovely guides, Declan and Ed, at the walk headquarters at Quamby Estate. The other 7 members of our walking group ( Pam, Laurie, Darryl, Yves, Belinda, Emma and Adam) arrived soon after and then followed a flurry of activity as we all organised our packs. The group was varied in ages, with some couples and some solo folk. After refreshments and a briefing we all piled into the bus to be taken to Cradle Valley.

Waldheim was our starting point and we used the day shelter to get dressed into raingear, before having our final briefing out in the steadily falling rain. Though very atmospheric in the low clouds, there were no amazing mountain and lake views this morning.

The first part of the walk took us along the Crater Lake Track, in almost white-out conditions, and up the steep challenging climb to Marion's Lookout.

The track continued through the thick cloud, along the Cradle Plateau, until we reached Kitchen Hut. It was raining quite heavily so we all piled in, only to find it already fairly full. Ed and Declan set up the Trangia and prepared a hot drink for us while we ate lunch. For some it was standing room only, especially as other walkers continued to arrive seeking shelter. It was almost a relief to head off again, especially as the rain had eased.

As we continued around the base of Cradle Mountain the low cloud started to lift and we were rewarded with some fine views of the side of Cradle Mountain and off to Barn Bluff.

The afternoon cleared to glorious sunshine, so we had wonderful views as we headed along the edge of Cradle Cirque. The track then took us down into Waterfall Valley via a rocky and uneven path. Our cabin for the night was a way past the public huts, which we could see further down in the valley. It had been a long day after an early start, so we were relieved when we finally arrived.

Ed had gone ahead to get the heater going, set out some Tassie cheese and nibbles, make bread and start the preparations for dinner. What comfort! One couple missed the turn off from the main track, but eventually found their way back. Paul, Cheryl and I managed to fit into a room for three, and after hanging wet gear in the drying room and having hot showers, the evening was spent relaxing, stretching and getting to know each other. Our meal was excellent, after which we all collapsed into our beds.

Day 2 - Wednesday 09 December 2015

Barn Bluff Hut to Pine Forest Moor Hut - 12km - 6 hours

More gloomy skies this morning, but spirits were high. Breakfast was at 7.30, Declan and Ed had the table all ready for us, with lunch items on a side shelf ready to be selected and packed.

Rain was coming down again as we took off heading for the Lake Will turn off.

We all elected to take the side trip to Lake Will and it was a cold and very windy walk to the lake.

This was our second trip into Lake Will and both times have been in cold, windy conditions, with low cloud hiding the view. Still amazingly beautiful!

The next leg of our walk took us, in strong winds, along the exposed area heading towards Lake Windermere. This part of the Overland Track is very beautiful, with many lakes stretching off into the distance on both sides of the path.

We then dropped down to Lake Windermere, where we stopped for lunch. This was where a swim was planned if we'd had more favourable weather.

Once again, the sky cleared for the afternoon, so we were afforded some excellent views as we headed off, through the amazing wild flowers, towards Pine Forest Moor.

The wind nearly blew us off the track in the more open areas.

We had a lovely stop at the River Forth Lookout, where we were out of the wind. Ed produced some delicious dark chocolate, which set us up for our final stretch of the day, through the Enchanted Forest. I pretty much ran from our rest spot to the forest, to escape the wind.

We arrived to find that Declan, as well as all his usual afternoon duties, had whipped up a batch of incredibly light scones.

Another evening filled with excellent conversation...we certainly were blessed with our group.

Day 3 - Thursday 10 December 2015

Pine Forest Moor Hut to Pelion Hut - 10km - 5 hours

Woke to a glorious sunny day, so very keen to get onto the track. We headed back out onto Pine Forest Moor with outstanding views of Mt Pelion West and across to Mt Oakleigh and Mt Ossa. I LOVED this section and didn't want it to end.

Our group met a couple of times for commentary from our guides. Our steps then took us on the sometimes muddy and slippery long downhill to Frog Flats, the lowest point of the Overland Track.

From here a small group of one guide and two others, Adam and Laurie, took off to go ahead and tackle the Mt Oakleigh climb. The rest of us continued, at a slower pace, uphill towards Pelion Plains.

Our group took the side trip to Old Pelion Hut, where we had a look inside and then enjoyed lunch in the serenity of the peaceful and beautiful surroundings. Met a few folk here heading to the creek for a dip, after walking around from New Pelion Hut.

We then moved on towards New Pelion Hut and enjoyed the view from the veranda, imagining our small group making their way up Mt Oakleigh.

The rest of our afternoon was spent looking for fossils in Douglas Creek, before making our way along the track to our cabin.

Late afternoon was quiet, as we'd been set the challenge of sharing 'something' for the group after dinner. We were all busily writing poems and organising what we were going to do. Before our meal we had Declan entertaining us on the guitar and a 'cereal box challenge'. This involved picking up a cereal box from the floor, using just the mouth, with hands behind backs. After each round the box was cut so it was much shorter. We ended up with myself, Ed and Yves, being able to pick up just the flat lid of the box...impressive.

Our post dinner self-expression session was excellent, with everything from serious or humourous self-written poems, to fun songs and farewell songs. For me, the highlight was Ed's performance of a very long poem by American performance poet Andrea Gibson. He had us mesmerised.

Another excellent day.

Day 4 - Friday 11 December 2015

Pelion Hut to car park via Arm River Track - 14km - 6 hours

As predicted, this morning was cooler and we knew that we'd be in for a wet morning. This cabin had great views.

We returned to Pelion Hut to gather, ready for our walk out via the Arm River Track. While at the hut we saw a young family heading off to continue their Overland Track walk. There was Mum and Dad with four kids, aged 7, 8, 10 and 11, all dressed for the weather and carrying packs of various sizes. What an amazing holiday activity!

The Arm River Track is one we'd long wanted to walk and it didn't disappoint, with views to Lake Ayr, areas of open button grass,

a bit of sleety snowfall, a couple of interesting creek crossings

and incredibly moist, mossy forest.

Our lunch stop, in the forest, was done with most folk standing, due to the freezing conditions. The hot drink prepared by Ed and Declan was most welcome!

Leeches proved to be the topic of the moment. I decided to have a look under my gaiters and found quite a few, and a bit of a bloody mess. One enormous one must have been feasting for ages.

From here we started our steep zig-zagged descent through drier forest and fern glades, with views to a waterfall.

At the carpark our bus awaited our return, and we were all given time to change out of boots and damp clothing. We had one stop at the honey shop in Chudleigh and then back to Quamby Estate for our final wrap-up. After gear was sorted and returned, Ed and Declan brought out some nibbles and a bottle of bubbly, which we all enjoyed. The end of a great 4 day adventure!

Thanks to all on the trip, our group was a good one and each evening provided great discussions and lots of fun. A big thank you to Declan and Ed, who looked after us incredibly well. Great cooks too! We thoroughly enjoyed being looked after and having a few comforts.