South Coast Track Walk.

Introduction

3 - 11 March 2013

It was the best of times... and it was the worst of times!

This track in Tasmania's far south west has a reputation for being tough; unpredictable weather, many creek/river crossings, solid climbs and lots of mud. We began our walk at Melaleuca and planned to walk to Cockle Creek, 84 kms away. In 2006 Paul and I flew in to Melaleuca for a day trip, especially to see the endangered orange-bellied parrots. On that trip, as we flew over the coastline and could see the wonderful beaches, rivers, headlands and mountains unfold before us, the inkling of the urge to experience it firsthand began. It was time to live this particular dream.

It's wonderful how the human mind seems to focus on the good memories rather than the tough ones. As I sit here now, a few kilograms lighter, tending cuts and bruises, scratching my numerous leech and mozzie bites I can relive all the excitement and happy times, hopefully I can also capture how very physically and mentally difficult this walk was for both of us.

Day One - Sunday 03 March 2013

Melaleuca to Point Eric - 13.5km - 5 hrs

With cries of, "We're going on an adventure!" we headed in early to Cambridge Aerodrome to board our Par Avion flight to Melaleuca. Our pack weights on arrival sounded great (15kg and 17kg) but by the time we added 2L of water (and raincoats and jumpers we had as hand luggage) our pack weights ended up being about 19kg for Bern and 22kg for Paul.

There was another bushwalking couple, young folk (Georgia and Dave), aboard our flight and they were as excited as us.

We would end up spending many evenings in the same camp sites and see each other frequently during the day, usually as they zoomed past us after our early starts.

Due to a foggy morning, we flew over the mountains instead of the coast. Initially we were disappointed as we wanted to see where we'd be walking, but once we got going the scenery just blew us away.

On arrival at Melaleuca we were greeted by some NP volunteers who directed us to water, toilets and the walk sign-on shed. We also picked up our cooking gas canisters. The weather was unbelievable: sunny, clear and quite hot.

Look how clean and happy we are...check out the shine on our boots

Our last fresh food, a delicious lunch of sausage sandwiches and apples, was eaten standing on the boardwalk track along the button grass plains in a tiny speck of shade.

The walk to our first night's camp was started with great excitement, but gradually the intense heat wore us down a little.

We managed to find a slight breeze once we climbed from the button grass plains along the edge of the New Harbour Range.

Our spirits rose as we got glimpses of, and finally reached, the ocean at Cox Bight and Freney Lagoon.

After a break near the lagoon outlet, we pushed on to Point Eric to set up camp. What a beautiful spot, especially in the conditions we had. The tent was up and then we relaxed with a hot drink, looking out over the ocean.

Water collection was one of the first jobs to do and, due to the extended dry that the area had experienced, the nearby creek was only just running. Spent ages perched on the rocks just soaking up the feeling of being away from the world. Our only companions at the campsite were Georgia and Dave and a fellow walking solo from east to west...he looked very weary.

Before bed we checked out the loo. Oh so discreet, with a see-through shade-cloth screen... and a million flies darting out as we lifted the lid. Oh dear! Some later camps had no screen at all. All that squatting had to be good exercise for the thighs I guess.

Day 2 - Monday 04 March 2013

Point Eric to Louisa Bay - 14km - 8hrs

Woke quite early today and had a stroll along the beach, couldn't believe how calm the Southern Ocean was. Today's walk took us along the coast for a short distance and then across the button grass, a very hot section and our first taste of the mud. Looking ahead we could see the very steep track heading up and over the Red Point Hills. Both of us found this section of track tough going and a few times we sat on the steps to rest. It was steep, but thankfully not too long. Fantastic views from the top, including a look at the Ironbound Range...a bit daunting, but that was for another day.

The next section was hot and slow, and in hindsight we should have stopped sooner to eat. We enjoyed our crossings of Faraway and Louisa Creeks, as both were very low and the cool water was welcome on our hot and weary feet.

My feet were suffering a bit due to the rookie mistake of wearing some untested socks. Never really had blister trouble before, and what an unfortunate time to start. My feet continued to trouble me for the entire walk.

We were both pretty weary, due to the extreme heat, after only 4 hours but elected to go out to Louisa Bay, due to the number of folk who told us we MUST go there. A bit of trouble finding the new track-head but after some off-track walking we bumped into the new boardwalk section of track. I was especially tired along this hot and exposed bit of the walk and Paul helped keep me going, narrowly avoiding a mutiny on my part. The final extremely steep scramble down to Louisa Bay was pretty exciting stuff; luckily someone had tied up some rope in order to give a bit of support...ended up on my backside on a few occasions.

What a beautiful spot! Sadly, we were both almost too tired to fully enjoy our surroundings. The water supply, from an unreliable drip, was being collected in a small white bucket. Georgia and Dave were there before us and had collected what water was there already and very kindly shared what they had with us. We wouldn't have wanted anyone else to come along, as water really was very scarce.

The camp area was small and narrow but sheltered and we found a nice grassy spot to set up the tent and had dinner fairly early. Had a short walk after dinner, to explore the beach and caves, and then sat with a view to the ocean and once again enjoyed the isolation and wildness. Both picked up a couple of leeches here.

Day 3 - Tuesday 05 March 2013

Louisa Bay to Louisa River - 8.5km - 5 hrs

Another beach stroll to start our day...amazing watching the sun creep over and light the headland.

Needed water for the trip out so we checked the white bucket. Dave and Georgia had also set up a cooking pot under another drip and it had collected some water as well. We took some and left the rest for them to use and headed off to retrace our steps out, firstly scrambling back up the near vertical track. Would love to have stayed to explore the beach and island but both of us decided on an early start and then an afternoon off. A few yoga stretches were in order on the walk out.

Managed to make it to a small creek before running out of water, it was a bit dried out and dodgy-looking but we collected water anyway. We arrived at the large Louisa River campsite in time for lunch. We spent the afternoon having a couple of very cold dips (though there is a limit to how clean and un-smelly you can get with just water...but we felt refreshed), airing a few things out...

...and resting.

We were both still very hot, even after being immersed in the cold water. A bit of a disturbed night, with concerns about the next day's walk over the Ironbound Range and also a lot of shouting from Georgia and Dave's campsite. They'd had a visit from a quoll which had eaten a hole in their tent in order to get at their food! We were lucky enough to see the quoll by torchlight as it walked right past our tent after its midnight snack.

Day 4 - Wednesday 06 March 2013

Louisa River to Little Deadman's Bay -12.5 km - 11 hrs

IRONBOUND RANGE DAY!

We actually set an alarm for this morning as Paul was keen to make sure we did as much of the climb as we could before the sun caught up with us. A great idea as it turned out; because he really struggled with the heat on this day. We were packed up and ready to roll at 6.45am and made our way through the trees in the dim morning light.

The first part of the 905m climb was pretty much a steep straight 1km uphill. We took lots of rests, including many sitting with the steps supporting out packs. We could see the sun behind the range and watched as the world gradually lit up. Took quite a while for the sun to hit us but Paul started to become very uncomfortable and could feel his heart racing and found it difficult to recover even with frequent stops. He was heard to utter at one stage that it was the worst day of his life!

We continued to plod on, trying to enjoy the unfolding views inland to Federation Peak and out to the coast, to Louisa Bay and even back to our first camp site at Point Eric. The ocean was perfectly calm and beautiful. Finally, we reached a boardwalk section that meant the toughest part of the climb was over. We reached the high point...mind-blowing views, of course.

High Camp was our lunch stop and Paul still found it difficult to reduce his racing heart. He ate little, drank some electrolyte (and aspirin) that I mixed up for him and lay down. Gradually he came good and was able to continue on, knowing that it was mostly downhill...and what a downhill it was...steep, muddy, slippery tree roots and rocks and HOT and humid, through amazing mossy forest. At each small creek we poured water over our heads and wet our hats. I timed one stretch of 900m, it took us 45mins...I found this rather soul destroying and became very low spirited for a while.

This was the muddiest bit of track, up to this point, and we were sinking in up to our shins. Little did I know when I took this boot and gaiter photo that we'd encounter MUCH worse in a few days. Remember those beautiful shiny boots on day one?

Eventually we came out into lovely forest, fairly flat, along the cliff tops with many small coves...a great pity, that we were so tired as we weren't able to fully appreciate it. We arrived in camp, utterly exhausted, after 11 hours...AMAZING!

At camp we met a couple, Jurgen and Gunnel, both 70(!) who had taken 3 days to get over the range due to some tummy troubles on Gunnel's part. What a strong and positive couple.

Had a wash, set up in a site with an outstanding view, ate dinner and collapsed into bed. Wind came up during the night.

Day 5 - Thursday 07 March 2013

Little Deadman's Bay to Prion Boat Crossing - 9.5km - 6hrs

We woke to strong winds and a cloudy sky, the first of our trip. Both of us felt surprisingly good and after considering staying on for a rest day, decided to move on. This was one of our latest starts, knowing that we didn't have a really big day ahead.

The first part of the day's walk was along the stones of little Deadman's Bay and then up into muddy forest, out onto Turua Beach, which was lovely, and then through the beautiful forest across Menzies Bluff.

Grotto Creek at the end of Prion beach was our lunch stop and as we sat on the rocks many crows came gathering...a regular stopping point, I guess. We were later told that this was a good place to collect water for the Prion Boat Crossing Campsite, though it would require lugging the extra weight the length of the beach. The cloud and wind made for cooler walking and the 4km along Prion Beach was fantastic, with wonderful views off in all directions. A long chat with a solo fellow heading the opposite way provided a rest. Sadly, saw lots of dead penguins along this section of the coast. Anyone on the Ironbound Range today would be in the cloud and miss the views we were privileged to see.

Headed across the big sand spit to the boat crossing, piled ourselves and all our gear in and took off across the New River Lagoon. We dragged the second boat down to the water and tied it on. Paul started to take the two boats back across when Georgia and Dave appeared over the sand.

They piled their gear in, along with Paul, and headed over together, saving the 3 trips to ensure a boat and oars on each side. I had a good laugh as I realised that the two boys were taking it easy, while Georgia did the rowing! A short time later Jurgen and Gunnel arrived, so Dave rowed back over to collect them and save them the extra exertion.

We set up a campsite and followed the sign to water. The lagoon water was almost black with tannin, and the small creek that provides the water for this campsite was the same ...and barely flowing. It had a bit of a dodgy smell too, but we found a point with a small bit of movement and did our best, adding our Aquatabs as usual.

We set up our tarp in case of rain.

A small pademelon visited during dinner. Check out the colour of our drinking water.

Day 6 - Friday 08 March 2013

Prion Boat Crossing to Surprise Bay - 9km - 6 hrs

This morning dawned beautiful and sunny again, with fog along the coastline and shrouding the mountains. We took a short walk out to the lagoon and saw our first view of Precipitous Bluff which had been hidden in cloud the afternoon before. This was one of my favourite places along the track...so very peaceful.

A tough walk out to Milford Creek due to thick overgrown shrubs. The wooden steps down to the creek were mostly washed away, so this made for a precarious descent. Our walk along the New River, beside a huge sand dune was lovely in the early morning light. Later, Jurgen told us he saw a Tasmanian devil in this area.

Once again, we had amazing views, to Precipitous Bluff and the Ironbound Range.

Our spirits dropped when we saw the ascent up an enormous dune, where the walkway/steps were once again washed away. The sand was soft and dry and it took an enormous amount of energy and strength to scale the monster...a lung and quad - busting effort. A bit tricky to find the track once at the top.

Very hot again today and lots of overgrown bushes and mud through this bit, and not enough energy to take the Osmiridian Beach side trip. Along this stretch we picked up a sock that looked like it was freshly dropped...a little later we came upon a running shoe and another sock. We knew they belonged to Dave, as he'd been running most afternoons as part of his training for an ultra marathon. Yes, running after each day's walk!

Much variety all the way to Surprise Bay, with stretches of mud, some steep downhill, pleasant open forest, thick scrub and even long grass that I called 'razor grass' or 'trip you up' grass...for obvious reason. We even encountered a large tiger snake sunning itself on the track. Happy to finally hear the surf and arrive out on the beach at Surprise Bay.

After a soft-sand plod to the end of the beach, we found Georgia and Dave enjoying lunch. We delivered the shoe and sock finds from along the track and chatted with a tour group just finishing their lunch and about to head off to the next camp area. Surprise Bay had a lovely highset camp site, with a bit of a steep scramble up. While there we had the excitement of seeing a rescue helicopter fly in and land on the beach. A message was passed on that they were looking for missing fellow...he was eventually found and rescued the next day.

Paul had a great story to tell from this incident. He raced off to get photo of the helicopter and was on the walkway down to the beach. Stepping back to get his photo he felt a whack on the back of his leg. When he looked down he saw a big tiger snake tearing off up the very steep side of the track trying to escape. It had been trying to get away, when it tumbled back down and ran into Paul! It could only happen to my dearly beloved!

We had a wonderful relaxing afternoon here. We swam in the sea and then rinsed off in the creek and, of course, collected our water for the night. After dinner we walked down to the beach and were amazed to see how dangerous it had become with the incoming tide. Not long after I took this peaceful photo the water came in with enormous force, swept around and surrounded this small rock, with two of the guys still on it.

Day 7 - Saturday 09 March 2013

Surprise Bay to Trackcutter's Camp - 7.5km - 7hrs

What a change, couldn't believe when we woke to rain today. Had planned to walk only 3km to Granite Beach and set up there for another easy afternoon before tackling the very tough South Cape Range leg of the walk. Decided to make our way to Granite Beach and make further decisions there.

Sorry, no photos for today or much of the next day due to adverse weather conditions.

A fairly good pack-up in the rain and with us dressed in our usual shorts and shirts (no raincoats on at this stage) we took off. Both of us got drenched over the small climb due to all the pushing through wet overgrown scrub. Raincoats went on as the rain got very heavy once out onto Granite Beach and we started the tricky walk along the smooth rounded stones to the campsite end of the beach.

The tide wasn't too high, but we had some big wave surges up the rocks as we neared the climb up to the camp. I almost lost my nerve when Paul pointed out the marker buoys hanging high above the waterfall, off what looked like a sheer cliff face. Thinking I had to climb that, I panicked a bit. Luckily that wasn't the climb, and Paul managed to coax me around the final stretch of rocks and up to the top.

Once in the campsite we set up the tarp in steady rain, still intending to erect out tent and stay. The campsite here was not very nice with a great pile of gear and rubbish left by those who didn't want to carry their gear over the final climb. Shame on the people who have created such an eyesore. It didn't appeal to us, so we ate lunch and decided to move on and camp at the top of the range at Trackcutter's Camp.

We left Granite Beach about 11.30, knowing that if the expected creek (near the top) was not flowing we would have great difficulty reaching the next campsite. We took off with some enthusiasm and the uphill was steep and early on, pretty straight forward. Then there were some tough sections, huge expanses of 'sucky' (literally and figuratively) mud and slippery rocks and tree roots. At one spot I went in very deeply and fell flat on my face into the mud...not fun with a heavy pack on. Paul had to haul me out.

Both of us were very wet, muddy and cold by the time we reached the small creek that would provide our water supply for the night. Lugging a few extra kilos up the hill for 25 mins until we reached the small clearing that was Trackcutter's camp was a pleasure we could have done without. It had taken us 4 hours to do this 4km section! We were exhausted!

A quick set up in steady rain and then we stripped for a leech check...there were plenty and plenty of 'bloody' bites too. We donned thermals for the first time on the trip, crawled into our tent and pretty much stayed there until morning, having a cup-a-soup and lunch wrap for our dinner.

This camp, in the rain, was 'leech-city', but a welcome stopping point. Managed to catch a glimpse of a clearing sky and a beautiful sunset out the tent door and this gave us hope for a dry day tomorrow.

Much to my surprise I slept like a log here

Day 8 - Sunday 10 March 2013

Trackcutter's Camp to Cockle Creek - 16.5km - 8hrs

More rain during the night and a very bleak start to the day. Both of us awake early, so planned what we'd do...decided to walk out to Lion Rock campsite and if the weather was still unfavourable we'd push on to Cockle Creek...and semi-civilisation.

Wore thermals and full wet-weather gear today as our shorts were unwearable. Had reasonable spirits when we took off, as soon as light allowed. Straight out into the mud again as we negotiated our way 2km downhill. Heaps of 'sucky' mud, the usual slippery tree roots and rocks and LEECHES. One memorable sight was of a small freshwater crayfish aggressively waving its claws at us from a muddy puddle left behind by a boot.

Blessed relief from the mud as we hit some boardwalk and then more open forest. Came out at the South Cape Rivulet and gave a small cheer. Noticed a group of kids playing near where we guessed the campsite would be, a fairly busy one from all accounts. Waded the rivulet with no problems and walked the length of the lovely beach in chilly wind.

A few last sections of mud awaited us as we crossed Coal Bluff and came finally out onto the beach near Lion Rock. This was the first time we had a packs-off stop for the day and it was only long enough to have a snack and 'de-leech' ourselves. Both of us had about 20 attached somewhere. Paul had a particularly big and nasty one that looked like it had been gorging since the wee hours. Weather still not fantastic, so decided to push on.

Headed along the beach to where a set of steps should have been, but once again the power of the sea has washed the lower bit away. This necessitated a rock-face and rope scramble to re-join the wooden steps. This point was the furthest that we reached in 2006, when we did a day walk from Cockle Creek.

We started to see 'normal' people from this point on; clean un-smelly family groups, couples and even folk starting off their South Coast Track adventure going in the opposite direction. One fellow worth a mention was heading out, along with a younger guy (and a big bag of apples), to walk the track in reef sandals!

Had a few chats with folk along the way but were pretty much on auto-pilot with the end in sight. Found the number of people a bit overwhelming after so long in the wilderness. Finally arrived just after 3pm, signed in and were welcomed by some lovely NP volunteers.

Finding a spot to camp was a bit difficult as it was the Sunday night of a long week-end and the place was packed. Managed to find a site and Paul's first job was to have a lie down! I could feel the sheer relief washing off him as he knew we'd finally made it!

We were delighted when Georgia and Dave arrived not long after us, having spent the night before at Lion Rock. They set up not far from us and we had a wonderful afternoon chatting and eating, until we all collapsed into our tents. The best sleep ever, though more rain overnight.

Day Nine - Monday 11 March 2013

Return journey back to our camper

A very slow start, heard Dave return from 10km run...yes, the morning after finishing the track. Paul had a long chat with Jurgen and Gunnel's daughter, trying to put her mind at rest that they were okay. We had texted a message to her the evening before, explaining that they would be on the track a bit longer than expected. She was very worried about them...meanwhile they were planning their next adventure of a 1000km kayak trip. Packed up between rain showers and took our gear to the NP Info centre where the Evans coach would be picking us up.

Imagine our surprise to catch up with Jenni, the woman we had met a few weeks before at Kitchen Hut, near Cradle Mountain. She was the one who encouraged us to do the walk, when we were faltering and thinking we couldn't manage it. Jenni had just completed another solo South Coast Track adventure, coming in late yesterday afternoon. What an amazing lady. After talking with her we realised that she flew in the day after us and then visited somewhere in the opposite direction for a few days, before tackling the track we walked. What we did in 8 days, she did is 4...yes, 4 days...what a wonder woman.

The bus trip was a good one with excellent company and good conversation. There were 5 others along with Paul and myself: Georgia and Dave, Jenni and 2 guys we met at Surprise Bay, who'd done a 10-day walk including climbing Precipitous Bluff. I wondered how the bus driver could stand the smell of us... so many dirty people and their stinking wet gear! We had one stop, at the cafe at Port Huon, where our driver had pre-ordered what we wanted... great pies!

We were delivered to our car at the airport and then made our way to our camper, which the owners at the Snug Caravan Park had looked after for us. Paul was dreaming of peanut paste and banana on toast and I had had an inkling for some lovely steamed vegies.

It was the end of this particular adventure, though the clean-up was an adventure all of its own, with some items destined for the bin! Happy days...washed hair, a shave for Paul, scrubbed bodies and clean fingernails...heaven!