Bern's Three Capes Track Walk.

Introduction

February 2016

We had long been watching the progress of the creation of the brand new Three Capes Walk in Tasmania, as well as the controversy attached to its development. Some friends registered to do the walk and I decided I'd like to join them. (Paul elected to go for stay on Maria Island instead). On this walk I was joined by some long-time friends, Kay and Fuzz and 4 of their Camino mates Liz and Bill, Rose and Simon. I used my new Deuter 45+10L backpack, carrying about 11kg. The Track was advertised as a dry-boot walk, but I still elected to wear my walking boots, the others all wore walking shoes, except for Rose who walked in Keen sandals.

Day 1 - Thursday 04 February 2016

Port Arthur to Surveyors Hut - 4km - 1.5 hours

The first glorious morning saw us walking to the Port Arthur Historic Site from our accommodation and checking in for the start of our walk. We were given a wonderful walk reference called 'Three Capes Track Encounters on the Edge', backpacks were stored and we had about 30 mins to have a quick look around. Plenty of chances to return with the 2-year entry card we were given as part of our walking fees.

We were told that our total group for the walk would be 35 (max 48 daily), with a number of folk being included after being unable to do the Overland Track due to fires. At 11.30 we were taken on a scenic 1.5 hour cruise on Port Arthur, where we had the opportunity to see at close quarters the small cliffs, Safety Cove, the beautiful Crescent Bay and even along the coast where we'd soon be walking.

We were then dropped off at Denmans Cove, where we stopped for lunch.

Our first night's accommodation, Surveyors Hut, was only 4 scenic kilometres away.

On arrival we were greeted by our Host Ranger, Robin, who let us know our sleeping arrangements for the night. Each of the two sleeping areas was arranged in 5 rooms, with the middle one being for groups of up to 8 and the 4 smaller rooms accommodating 4 each. Our group of 7 was housed in one of the larger rooms.

It was then into the serious business of cups of tea, relaxing and chatting with our fellow walkers. This hut had an AMAZING view that looked across to Cape Raoul way off in the distance.

The facilities provided for walkers were really very good, with extremely comfortable mattresses on double bunks, plenty of room to spread out, lots of space in the kitchen/dining areas and toilets nearby.

Bedtime was a bit like going away on school camp, with what sounded like lots of jumping around on bunks and thumping around on wooden floors, and me without my teacher's authority to get in there and settle everyone down.

Day 2 - Friday 05 February 2016

Surveyors Hut to Munro Hut - 11km, 5.5hours

Day Two dawned another sensational day and we were all keen to get going.

Our route took us through eucalypt forest and across moorland, along a high ridge to Arthur's Peak.

We stopped often, to admire plants and animals, to check out the historic or natural information in our guidebooks and rest at the various seats (works of art, really) provided along the way.

Arthur's Peak provided a good morning tea spot and the views in all directions were exceptional.

We moved along the cliff tops,

through a small cool patch aptly named Cloud Forest and, as the day warmed considerably, down into the more exposed Ellarwey Valley.

After moving into more covered bush we stopped for lunch, perched on some logs on either side of the path. As we moved off, we realised that not too much further along was a beautiful seat, named Love in the Woods, which would have made a fantastic lunch spot. Stretched out there was one of the young solo female walkers. She later told me she sat there for well over an hour, enjoying the beautiful setting and chatting with others as they came along and stopped for a look. We were happy to find the track junction and take the turn off towards Cape Pillar and our home for the night, Munro Hut.

When we arrived the outside dining area was full of folk, eating, relaxing and packing their backpacks. We realised that this was because the first part of their day's walk was out to Cape Pillar and back, to collect gear before moving on.

The first view of Munro was pretty amazing, with a viewing deck jutting out and views away to Cape Hauy. Host Ranger, Donna-lee, was most welcoming and was an excellent source of information for our next day's walk.

One exciting thing about Munro Hut was the opportunity to have a wash. The outdoor bush shower was well set up and we were asked to preserve water and use only half a bucket. Never was one woman so excited about half a bucket of freezing cold water...it was AMAZING!

At each of the huts the Kitchen/Dining area had a small library and also some much welcome yoga mats. Also popular were the numerous deck chairs provided. The ones at Munro were put to excellent use, with some folk staying out until dark, getting into sleeping bags as the air chilled.

The toilets at Munro were considerably further away from the sleeping space, so this made for a couple of interesting evening walks.

Day 3 - Saturday 06 February 2016

Munro Hut to Retakunna Hut, via Cape Pillar - 17 kms, 6 hours

Another beautiful start to the day. Advised to take essentials only out to Cape Pillar, I stowed my gear in the garden shed provided for storage, and started out. This is where I saw my only snake for the walk, though others saw snakes every day. I walked solo for this section and really enjoyed the solitude and the varied vegetation...oh, and the sublime views. There were forested areas,

open heath,

amazing artwork,

and the 'Great Boardwalk of Cape Pillar'.

As the track neared the end of Cape Pillar, wonderful coastal views could be seen, with many excellent vantage points along the way.

Finally, Tasman Island could be seen. I could only imagine what a lonely and tough life it would have been for the lighthouse keepers and their families.

I decided to walk up The Blade and was lucky enough to have it to myself for about 10 minutes.

Fuzz followed soon after and we able to take a few photos of each other. We watched as a group of 12 jet skis rounded the point. The views were endless.

After joining Kay, we walked around to Seal Spa, where those with binoculars could see down to a seal colony. A cruise ship came in while we watched from above, as did a lone kayaker, enjoying the calm conditions. We could see back to The Blade, watching as folk made their way up to the top.

I walked back alone, once again taking in the peacefulness and beauty. Luckily a small breeze blew in, as the afternoon was very hot. Along the way I encountered two separate couples, a young pair who were doing a very long day walk from Cape Hauy and the others camping at Wughalee Falls.

Once back at Munro Hut, a cup of tea, a snack and a repack was in order before taking in the view one last time and heading off up the track.

It was a hot, and mostly uphill, 3km walk to Retakunna Hut. There was only one other couple already arrived and our Host Ranger, Adam, had left a list of our rooms. Walkers drifted in throughout the afternoon.

This was a very lazy afternoon spent perched on deck chairs, stretching and chatting. Everyone got very excited as we watched an echidna trundling not too far away from the buildings.

A few of our group mentioned to Adam, as we did with Donna-lee, about the safety of the steps at each hut. Though some had reflective taping or tiny metal studs, the wood all looked the same making for poor depth perception and some steps ended in odd places. We felt that they were an accident waiting to happen...how true that was, as during a late night loo trip, I missed a bottom step and sprained my foot. Not having access to ice, I went back to bed and hoped for the best. This was a magnificent starry night!

Day 4 - Sunday 07 February 2016

Retakunna Hut to Fortescue Bay - 14km

Another glorious day, but I woke with a badly swollen foot. I limped about during breakfast and then Rose, a nurse, strapped my foot. Luckily, I had my ankle high boots as they held everything in and, with the use of a borrowed second pole I was able to hobble my way out for our final day of walking. Even though I insisted that I would just make my way slowly, Rose very kindly walked behind ensuring that I kept going. Time was of the essence for some folk today, as they were booked onto the 2pm bus from Fortescue Bay.

It was a tough start too, with the first bit being the big climb up into the low cloud surrounding Mt Fortescue. It was incredibly cool through this section...most welcome.

This part of the walk was through dense mossy forest, with extremely tall trees and 'land of the giants' tree ferns and fungi.>

We eventually made out way out to the clifftops again and were rewarded with excellent views back to Cape Pillar, which was shrouded in cloud.

We also had bird's eye views to interesting coastline...

...and where we had already walked.

Eventually Rose and I arrived at the track junction to Cape Hauy. All of the others in our group had already made their way out onto the cape, leaving their packs at the junction clearing. I had already decided that it would be madness to try to continue on out there, so sat on the seating intending to have a bite of lunch then slowly make my way into Fortescue Bay. Once I sat for a while I realised that I wasn't quite ready to re-join civilisation, knowing also how busy Fortescue Bay would be on a long week-end...so I stayed.

While sitting I had another read through my walk guidebook marvelling at some of the interesting history and nature stories. I especially loved some of the names for the sites: Messy is Good, Jurassic Crack, My Blood Runs Cold, Sex on the Cape and Blood on the Velvet Lounge being some favourites.

I thoroughly enjoyed a two-hour rest, chatting with each of the groups and individuals as they came through to prepare for their Cape Hauy walk. I also got to say farewell to Simon, Liz and Bill who were on the early bus. Reluctantly, I made my way slowly and carefully to Fortescue Bay.

Rose, Kay and Fuzz arrived minutes after me and we made our way to the tiny kiosk for some refreshments. For me, a swim was of the utmost importance as the day was hot and the water was clear and blue. Many of our 4pm bus group had a dip. It felt amazing all over, especially on my swollen and battered foot. Our bus arrived and we were delivered back to Port Arthur for the end of our adventure. Overall, a wonderful walk with excellent facilities provided for walkers.

Foot update after visiting my physio - a significant mid-foot sprain with tendon irritation. Resting it!