Walls of Jerusalem Walk.

Getting there

February 2013

A walk in the Walls of Jerusalem NP has been a goal of ours since our first visit to Tasmania in 2006. Back then, after 2 months of travel and many day walks we were preparing for an overnight walk in the Walls when Paul got ill and was in hospital for three days, after having his appendix removed. Our subsequent visits to Tassie did not provide the opportunity, so the Walls walk was a prime goal this time. We arrived in our base, Mole Creek, late on Feb 10, after a day sailing on the Spirit of Tasmania. The next day was spent preparing our gear, not much fun inside our camper, with little room to spread out.

Packs were weighed: Bern 16.5 kg and Paul 18.5kg (each including 2L of water)

Day 1 - Tuesday 12 February 2013

Car park to Wild Dog Creek camp area - 7.5km

Our day started with an early wake-up and a small present opening for my birthday. We packed the camper away and were lucky enough to be able to leave it safely stored at Mole Creek Caravan Park (thanks Jill, owner).

Paul and I were really excited as we drove out past Lake Rowallan and on to the Walls car park. Quite a few cars there, which somehow made us feel a bit safer about leaving the car. It was boots and packs on and then we started the upward climb. The track was, as we'd read, quite tough, a bit rocky and rough; a steep and relentless uphill pull. I struggled early on and, maybe as extra birthday present, Paul very gallantly took my 2kg of water.

After 1.5 hours we were happy to reach our morning-tea stop at Trapper's Hut. It was originally built in 1946 as a drying room for animal skins. We were beset by the march flies which were to become our constant companions on the trip.

Another 1 km of climbing saw us come out of the trees into a more exposed and hot, but more gently undulating, part of the walk that took us to the lakes of Solomon's Jewels. Both of us were really feeling the heat and were happy to know that the largest of the lakes meant 1km to go until our camp site for the night.

We arrived in time for a late lunch, the walk up taking us a little over 4 hours, with plenty of time spent taking in the sights, and catching our breaths on the steeper uphill bits. Wild Dog Creek camp area was well set up with a number of double and single tent platforms in 2 separate areas, each with its own tap (lovely cool water). The toilet was a little further up the hill, leading into the commercial group camp area. At this time of the year, and under wonderful clear skies, all platforms were in the baking sun and there was no escape.

We took off up the hill to Herod's Gate for our first glimpse of the actual 'Walls' and were rewarded with the sensational sight of the rough rocky King David's Peak, Lake Salome and Mt Jerusalem in one direction and Cradle Mountain and Barn Bluff, way off in the distance, in the other.

After taking in the view we returned to our camp-site as we were both pretty tired. Paul set up our new lightweight tarp and we relaxed under that. For our tired muscles, some stretches were in order and we both kept watch for the ever present march flies and the odd bee. During the afternoon our neighbours returned from their day walks looking very hot and weary. The intense heat really was energy-sapping and both Paul and I began to doubt whether over-night walking was still for us.

A large commercial group, of about a dozen, came in during the afternoon and they set up in their own area. By evening, there was only one tent platform left empty in the general use areas.

The temperature eventually cooled about 7pm and we waited until then to eat our dinner. We were thankful of the time spent, prior to leaving home, dehydrating meals as our dinner of beef chilli and polenta revived our spirits. For past trips commercial freeze dried meals made up our dinners, and though you can't beat them for convenience my home cooked meals won hands down for taste and satisfaction.

The march flies were replaced by nasty biting mozzies. There was much 'killing' of both flies and mozzies during the course of our stay. The sunset was sensational and we saw every last moment of it. Clumner Bluff was lit up in shades of pink and the small lake on the plain below the camp area looked to be filed with molten lava.

A warm night on the hard platform made for an unsettled sleep. It's amazing how every little sound carries in the still night air, especially sleeping bag and tent zips. We had a visit from a possum and I caught a glimpse of it struggling to get in under the tent fly. Not a view I enjoyed waking up to in the early hours. I managed to chase it off with no harm done

Day 2 - Wednesday 13 February 2013

Wild Dog Creek - Walls walks 12km

Our first morning dawned misty and cool. Toilet time was interesting due to the number of campers trying to access just the one loo. Paul and I got an early start, as we knew it would be another scorcher. We headed up through Herod's Gate and into the Walls. Lake Salome looked beautiful and the West Wall amazing.

Visited Lake Bethesda and took heaps of photos of everything, as every view was sensational. Heading up through Damascus Gate we were blown away by the looming rocky face of Solomon's Throne and also The Temple. Our plan was to go on the Dixon's Kingdom and check this out as a possible area to camp, on advice from the others camping in our area who were shifting there during the day. The National Parks discourages camping in this area but have recently installed two toilets.

The walk down was through lovely pencil pines but these were nothing compared to the ancient forest surrounding Dixon's Hut. This hut was built as a base for cattle grazing, hard to imagine this beautiful area with cattle trampling through it.

Paul and I had it all to ourselves and stopped for morning tea, enjoying the solitude. We then walked back up to Damascus Gate, having decided that we would move camp tomorrow and have a night at Dixon's Kingdom to explore the area and enjoy the peaceful setting and the cool shade of the forest.

Next we scaled Solomon's Throne (1479m), which was a challenging climb for me, being quite exposed and steep.

Thankfully there were flat rocks arranged across the scree, as a sort of staircase.

This led to a steep, narrow cleft...

...and finally to the top. Paul tried out his phone and was happy to see he had perfect reception. We spent ages up there just taking in the outstanding views.

After our descent, lunch was eaten under a pencil pine, where we were beset by bees. Maybe they fancied our salami and cheese flat bread rolls! We then decided to climb The Temple (1446m) which gave us a different view into the Walls. Both of us were starting to flag a bit again in the heat and didn't enjoy this climb as much as Solomon's Throne, though the view was stunning.

Along the way back to camp we met with a number of folk: a guy on his own out for a long day walk from the car park, a single French woman, a young couple from Emerald and two Dutch guys we'd met a few days before at the caravan park, all heading for Dixon's Kingdom to camp. Wild Dog Creek was deserted when we got back, with our tent being the only one left. We had a bit of a wash at the tap, rinsed a few items of very smelly clothing, set up our shade tarp and relaxed as much as the march flies and mozzies let us. We enjoyed the attention of a few wallabies grazing around our camp-site.

Late in the afternoon a lovely young Melbourne guy, Markus, arrived and we had a long chat before he headed up to the next area to set up camp. He had an enormous back pack, with a day pack on his front, including fishing gear. He was heading out to the lakes for 7 nights.

After dinner we headed back up to Herod's Gate to watch the sunset lights on Mt Jerusalem. It reminded us of Uluru as the colours changed with the angle of the sun.

This was a much cooler night and we both slept more soundly. We did have a return visit of the possum and it managed to get in under our tent fly. I could feel it moving past my head (!), but once again, I scared it off.

Day 3 - Thursday 14 February 2013

Wild Dog Creek camp area to Dixon's Kingdom, plus Mt Jerusalem - 10km

Woke to a very clear and beautiful morning, everything was dewy and our tent wet with condensation. We dismantled it and shifted it to dry on one of the platforms already in the sun. The plain below the camp area was lit up with beautiful morning sunlight and the pencil pines looked amazing.

Took us ages to pack, but we were finally away and up over Herod's Gate back into the Walls. Walked the 4km through to Dixon's Kingdom and dithered about for ages looking for a flattish spot to set up the tent. Once organised we had morning tea and a big chat to Markus, who'd made his way over, and also the young couple from Emerald. We then took off for our walk up Mt Jerusalem (1459m).

This track left from right in front of the hut and climbed on a boardwalk until reaching a small tarn shelf. The lakes were a welcome relief from the hot, hot, hot conditions and we splashed our heads to cool ourselves.

What a fantastic walk, with views that were mind-blowing. We could see down into the walls, back to Herod's Gate, and beyond that to all the peaks of the Overland Track. Off in the other direction were lakes of all different sizes, going off into infinity. It was a vast scene, the best view ever!

Even though we complained a lot about the intense heat of this trip, we realised how lucky we had been to have such clear days in which to enjoy the vast views. A Tassie local told us, after this walk, that he had got to the top of Mt Jerusalem three times, but had never seen the amazing views, the peak being clouded in each time.

After such a hot walk up, it was odd to have to put on our coats due to the lovely chilly breeze. We ate our lunch perched on top of the world before being joined by the two Dutch lads. They passed us a bit later, at a gallop, heading down

Our afternoon was spent relaxing in the shade of the magnificent pencil pines, some reputed to be up to 1000 years old. Paul had a wander and we filled our water bottles from the small creek. The setting was beautiful and incredibly peaceful. Though present, the march flies and mozzies were not as numerous or worrisome as at Wild Dog Creek.

There were only three tents at Dixon's Kingdom for the night. One of them belonged to the solo French woman who we'd seen take off for a walk about 11 am. We started to worry a bit about 7pm when we hadn't seen her get back. We must have missed her return, as eventually there was movement in the tent and she appeared after being asleep inside since her return about 5pm, after doing a 6 hour (18km) circuit walk.

After dinner, Paul and I walked about 500m along the track to watch the last of the sun's light on Mt Jerusalem. AMAZING! Even the light on the hill and pencil pines opposite our camp was wonderful to see.

The night spent here was my favourite, as I slept beautifully on the lovely soft grass and enjoyed the absolute quiet of the peaceful setting. It was cooler and we had no possum visitors.

Day 4 - Friday 15 February 2013

Dixon's Kingdom to car park via Junction Lake Track - 13km

Our final day in the Walls dawned lovely and clear. We woke and rose as early as we could as we knew we had a long, hot walk ahead to get back to the car. The sun was just starting to appear and everything was quite wet. A much quicker breakfast and pack up today and we were away by 8.30am.

We headed off down the hill towards Lake Ball.Fairly early on Paul had a heavy fall when his foot plunged down into a small water hole and he went straight forward. Luckily it was a soft landing and all was good. Once we hit the lake we skirted along a rough and undulating track well above the water's edge.

We arrived at the Lake Ball Hut to find the two Dutch lads finishing off their breakfast after staying the night in the hut. It was a cosy fit, I think. The rocky track provided us with wonderful views of the lake and its clear water.

Eventually the walking became a little easier as we approached Lake Adelaide. We could see the lake well before the final steep scramble down to meet the Junction Lake Track. Our morning tea spot was beside the lake, in a beautiful area that looked to be suitable in which to camp.

Not long after, we got a good look at a tiger snake, the 4th for our trip. This one was just beside the track, and even though I was keeping a watch out for snakes, I missed it completely. Luckily Paul saw it and gave a warning. I was sacked as leader for a while after missing that.

Our trip across the plains was very hot and exposed, without a breath of moving air. It was incredibly dry and at each of the small creeks we crossed we stopped to splash our heads and wet our hats. Paul started to feel the effects of the heat and in hindsight we should have stopped to re-fill our water bottles. This part of the walk undulated through small stands of scrub and then out into more open areas. We glimpsed some lakes and some small completely dry waterholes. Just like everywhere else, this area was in need of some rain.

I was leading again by now and was setting a cracking pace. At Trapper's Hut, we knew we had only the 2km downhill section to walk. We stopped for lunch, but it was a short one as the march flies were monumental and chased us back onto the track.

We set off on the last little bit of the walk with sore feet and tired legs. We were also perilously low on water, both our water bottles ran out about 10 minutes from the car park. Luckily, we had a couple of water bottles waiting for us in the car. We were happy to see the car park come into view and gave a bit of a cheer as we hit the flat ground.

A large group of young French folk were organising their gear to start their trip. They were very keen for information. Paul and I had a laugh at how carefully we had planned our trip, compared with these young travellers, with stuff strewn all over the car park...loaves of bread, gigantic pots of peanut paste, bags of oranges and 2kg blocks of cheese. Oh to be so carefree!

The end of our adventure saw us heading back to our camper at the Mole Creek Caravan Park.

We set up and had a wonderful shower each, then some serious stretching before taking off for the local cafe for a wonderful dinner. Total unpacking and washing waited until the next day.

This is the end of this part of our adventure in Tassie. More to come!