Samos to Sarria

Wednesday 1 June 2016 - Day 35

Samos to Sarria - 15 km

Wow, I can't believe that I've made it to Sarria. This is the starting point for many people who walk the final 100 or so kilometres in order to earn their compostela/certificate. Sad to know that Becky walked this far and had to abandon her walk. She caught the bus to Santiago today and has already attended the noon pilgrim Mass.

My day started with the Italians in my room getting organised and heading off. I left about 8am, giving Benny a wave as I headed downstairs. As I made my way out of town, I realised that Samos is a lot bigger than I thought yesterday. A magnificent morning!

Imagine my surprise to hear footsteps behind me, and find Benny right there. I think he's been very bored and lonely since he had to slow down a couple of days ago, allowing his walking friends to race on ahead. We explored the small roadside chapel in Tequin/Teixos.

Dual spelling for some things in Galicia. This area has a Celtic history, with the Galega language being still spoken by a substantial minority. The other day as I passed through Pereje, I noticed the signs at each end of town had the j whited out, over-written by an x. I'm looking forward to hearing some bagpipes too.

Today's walk was just lovely, along country laneways edged with crops or cows, with folk tending their plots.

We went through mossy forest tracks beside the river.

There was so much to stop and admire. Also lots of cow poo on the tracks and strong manure smells most of the way. Much bird call activity too.

There were numerous villages all with a small chapel and tumble-down buildings. Some places we passed through were Gorolfe, Veiga, Sivil and Perros.

Was thankful of Benny's company, as today would have been a solo walk, with no other pilgrims to be seen and few locals out and about. We both had a bad feeling about a guy just sitting in his car alongside the road. Benny was a little ahead, but turned to check that I walked safely past. Benny later remarked, quite bluntly, that he was glad we were there with each other, as either of us could have ended up in the boot of the car. An awful thought, but we both felt it!

In a few places we crossed the river, which was fast flowing and crystal clear. A dip would have been nice, but I have a feeling it would have been icy.

After 10km and a few hours of walking we joined the main Camino track again at Aguiada, where we stopped to eat. Met up again with the lovely 80 year old Irish lady, Dorothea. She still looked as bright as a button. I introduced her to Benny and her words of wisdom were for him to make sure he takes care of his sore young knees. He was in awe of her, as I'd told him her age.

We trundled off, and I left Benny at a nearby, really nice looking albergue called Paloma y Lena. He wasn't looking forward to an afternoon on his own, but his eyes lit up when he saw colourful hammocks in the trees. What an earnest young man, he thanked me for my company as he needed the companionship.

I pushed on to Sarria. Here I am with a few kilometres to go to reach town. It's a poor photo, but really represents what it's like to come upon the sight of a city/town and know you've got to walk all the way there.

Staying at Albergue Puente Ribeira on the way into town. Had booked a solo private room with bathroom for €20. I have the pilgrims walking (plodding, really) right past my window. Washed my hair with real shampoo, have real sheets on the bed and got to use a real towel...sheer luxury.

Explored and now relaxing. Can't say I love Sarria, it seems a bit seedy. If I ever did this again (!), think I would just walk through and stay elsewhere. Finding the city vibe a bit overwhelming after all the small villages along the way.

Dinner was a bit ordinary, but I had some good ice cream for dessert. Lots of feathery seed pods wafting about in the breeze.

My guidebook tells me I have 115 kilometres to walk to reach Santiago de Compostela.