Triacastela to Samos

Tuesday 31 May 2016 - Day 34

Triacastela to Samos -10km

When I woke this morning I was undecided about what I would do, stay a day to try to recover from my cold or move on. Either way, I was able to have a small lie-in as other pilgrims prepared for the day ahead. Finally decided that I'd move on, just walking the 10km to Samos. A bit grumpy to find that someone had eaten the yoghurt I'd left in the fridge for my breakfast. Took off a bit hungry, and there were no cafe options along the way.

Left about 8am feeling like I was all alone again, with not many pilgrims appearing to walk this route. Walked a while with Paul, from Hull. I'd met him last night as part of Ana's walking group. Much roadside walking initially.

Passed through the amazing, small, very ancient village of San Christobo. Had a look at the traditional mill and weir on the rio Oribio.

I love these old villages where time appears to have stood still. Funnily enough, there was a vending machine and a couple of old plastic chairs here.

From here the path went along mossy forest tracks, with the river never far away. It passed through a number of tiny communities, usually centred around a small church.

About here, I walked a while with an Asian French woman, who is completing her Camino after 4 annual instalments, from across France. Imagine my delight to find that I had met her husband at a mobile cafe the other day. She was explaining that he is driving while she walks, but he walked two days when she had a sore knee. I heard this story from him as he shared a table when I was walking with Miles and Tessa. A small world indeed.

Also met and walked with Margaret, from Mt Beauty. She hadn't intended to walk to Samos, but missed the Sarria turn and then got lost a couple of times on the forest paths. I walked the final few kilometres with her and then had a great chat over a coffee, tostadas and tortilla. As we approached Samos, we picked up, Benny, an 18yr old German lad with bung knees. I'm astonished at how many young people are here walking. Someone told me that the young Spaniards do it to put on their CVs.

Samos is famous for its old monastery, evidently founded in the 6thC by the Desert Fathers. It became Benedictine in 960 and remains so today, with 10 monks in residence. The church is one part of this enormous complex.

Margaret continued on after lunch, but Benny and I ended up in the same dorm room at Val de Samos, which is lovely and open with a great monastery view. We shared a washing and drying load... funny the things I'm doing here, and accepting as quite normal. We also visited the monastery together and joined a tour group. Here's part of one of the cloisters.

The commentary was in Spanish but I just enjoyed seeing everything. There was some interesting modern murals, incorporating optical illusions. We visited the church, which was having renovations done behind the altar, and also the sacristy which had the femur of St Benedict... I don't like to seem cynical, but I wonder how many of those are in existence.
Here's me with Benny in the sacristy in front of a 18th C Baroque table.

Our 10 bed dorm is suddenly full of Italians. Benny and I had dinner and an ice cream together and I'm planning on attending Mass at 7.30pm. This town gets fantastic afternoon sun, and pilgrims are out lazing on the grass by the river lapping up the last warming rays.

Just heard that Becky might have to abandon her walk at Sarria due to shin splints. So sad for her.

Back from Mass...gosh, these churches have amazing acoustics. One monk in particular had a wonderful voice.

Can't believe it...I have another blister, a whopper under my left little toe. I had a gel sleeve on my toe today and didn't even realise I had the blister until I went to do my foot preparations just now. Will it ever end...I guess the answer is no!