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Friday 10 June 2016
Santiago de Compostela
Had a nice surprise this morning when my Irish friend Dorothea appeared to share breakfast with me. I was hoping to catch up with her before I departed for home. Just as she left another friend appeared, Lorelle from my Brisbane cycling group. She did a walk/ride combo for her Camino. I last saw her while on the Meseta, weeks ago.
I went early to check out the cathedral, and really beat the crowds. I got to take as long as I wanted with the Apostle behind the High Altar and visited the crypt twice, as well as looking into all the small chapels.
It really is a beautiful cathedral. Once back at my accommodation I was able to get into the deserted courtyard I can see from my window. My room is second from the top, second from the left.
While waiting in front of the cathedral to join the free walking tour, I ran into Goldie, a Brazilian pilgrim. She was part of last night's group for a short while. She decided to do the tour as well. Our leader was Andrea, a local doing her first English speaking tour.
Our tour went for 2 hours and we visited some areas I hadn't yet ventured into. This sort of tour is a great idea, as you get to hear interesting localised stories that aren't readily known. This stone marker shows where the original pilgrim graveyard was. In its day, it would have been right in front on the cathedral area. Today it's behind the city hall.
We visited all the cathedral plazas. This one, at the front of the cathedral is called Praza do Obradoiro and is where the pilgrims finish their walk. Andrea also pointed out the Holy Gate /Porta Santa, which is currently open for the proclaimed Year of Mercy.
Our final stop was in Alameda Park, to view the sculpture known as Las Dos Marias/The Two Marys. These sisters, who were eccentrically dressed and made up, were popular characters who walked in the park daily during the 50s and 60s. They had a sad past with their family being involved in the anarchist movement during the Civil War... the sisters suffered due to this.
After leaving my group I went back to the cathedral to enter the Holy Door, then realised that was how I went in yesterday when I was in a hurry.
Returned to the main square at the cathedral and saw the floating St James. There are many interesting street performers in Santiago.
I also touched my feet to the 0 km shell in the centre of the square, just in case I decide to return.
Had a bit of quiet time to pack my now nearly bursting backpack. My tummy has continued to be upset, so had some dry crackers and yoghurt for an early dinner, before heading back to the cathedral for 7.30pm Mass.
I heard the botafumeiro always features at the service, and I wasn't disappointed. I didn't have a seat this time as the cathedral was packed, but I had a good view of the service on a TV screen. The flying incense burner was sensational again. This isn't such a good shot, but check out everyone with their phones.
Well, my time in Santiago de Compostela and Spain is nearly over. The anticipation of preparation and planning and then the actual walking was long and drawn out, but my time here seems to have gone quickly. It's been an interesting and unexpected journey I've been on. Off to Madrid early tomorrow for 1 night. I'm ready to come home.