El Acebo to Columbrianos

Friday 27 May 2016 - Day 30

El Acebo to Columbrianos - 21km

Woke feeling weary today after a poor sleep. Felt a bit ordinary due to my sore throat and cough. Another beautiful day as I left El Acebo.

The way was downhill, either on the road or via rough, stony paths. The scenery was stunning, with hills and valleys off in all directions. Little villages could be seen perched here and there on ridges or in valleys. Lots of wind turbines and electricity poles again this morning... also an abundance of wildflowers.

Stopped for a snack in Riego de Ambros. Four Asian ladies from last night's albergue were over-joyed to see noodle cups on the shelf in the cafe/shop. The shop-keeper kindly boiled some water for them to rehydrate their unexpected treats.

For the next 5km I could have been the only person in the world, as I lost sight of the pilgrims I had left El Acebo with. The ground was tricky, with mud, slippery rocks and the usual rough stony ground.

The town of Molinaseca appeared around a bend, and after crossing the rio Maruelo I stopped at a bar for a late tortilla breakfast. One or two pilgrims sauntered by...where was everyone? This almost solo pilgrimage continued all day.

From Molinaseca the way went along the main road for some time, then I took a slightly longer route via Campo and on into Ponferrada. The 12thC Castillo de los Templarios made an impression as I approached.

Once again, there was a distinct lack of pilgrims as I negotiated my way through the old town. I have a feeling I took a wrong turn as I ended up in a very seedy street with much graffiti, where the locals looked a bit shocked to see me plodding along.

Eventually located a farmacia to get something for my throat. Had a wonderful pharmacist who gave me some good advice. She has walked the Camino, so knew the things I was looking for. Ate a bocadillo at a cafe then took off for my final 5km into Columbrianos.

Once again, I thought I'd taken a wrong turn as I headed off out of Ponferrada via Compostilla... some suburbs and industrial areas, all a bit lonely for me, especially when a car stopped just ahead of me, and a guy got out to pee on the side of the road. Happy to get to Columbrianos on very weary feet. Have a new blister forming on big toe... was hoping for an end to the blisters but think I have to accept that they'll be with me until the end.

Stopped for a chat with June and Joe, who were having a break in a cafe. Staying at Albergue San Blas. A room of 4...only me so far, plus a couple of chain-smoking German girls who have a private room.

Did some forward planning and now have only a couple of nights with nothing organised yet. Hope I sleep well tonight, much coughing and not feeling so good.