Arzua to O Pedrouzo

Monday 6 June 2016 - Day 40

Arzua to O Pedrouzo - 21km

Woke this morning to light rain. I was glad to get up as the dorm room was stuffy and hot. I'm always amazed at folk tearing around shutting windows on what I think are mild nights. Left Arzua in drizzle, taking a small detour to stop at an ATM.

There was a climb with excellent views back to Arzua, and then it was into the forest, which I enjoyed immensely.

I'd eaten only a muesli bar and an apple for breakfast, so the cafe at A Calzada, after 6km, was most welcome. This particular cafe seemed to pop up out of nowhere, as I'd been walking through dairy farms and suddenly there it was... packed with pilgrims, as usual.

From there the way continued through changing forest. Sometimes it was lush and mossy.

Sometimes the forests were plantations.

There were streams of pilgrims today and I rarely had time alone.

Just after breakfast, I was joined by John, from Canada. He seemed much quicker than me but elected to slow down to walk and chat with me for a while. John walked this same route, at the same time last year... loved the experience so much, he returned for more.

It was probably good that he came along as I was not feeling 100% today, suffering a bit with allergy related dull-head and sick tummy. I blame the profusion of flowers, pollen everywhere and lots of mown fields... all of which I have loved. It just meant that I had little energy... I really felt like I needed to lie down for most of the walk. If I was at home, it would have been, what my Mum used to call, a 'lost day'.

My feet, which have been okay the last couple of days, also decided to play up. I'm afraid that after some inspection, a couple of new blister rubs are happening on my heels, sort of attached to the old blisters. Seems that my blister woes will be with me until the end! I also still have my swollen and sore right ankle.

John and I walked together until the next cafe stop at O Emplame. This was all of 9.5km and we were both in need of food, water, a bathroom and some shoes off time. This was a very busy area, with three cafes on an intersection frequented by many trucks.

Just before the stop, a fellow called Anton passed us. John knew him from the night before. Anton had his own sellos/stamp for credentials, so kindly stamped ours before walking on.

After the break I walked my final 5km alone under very threatening skies. This section of track had some wonderful eucalypt forest. The smell was incredibly strong, maybe because of the earlier rain.

I stopped in the village of A Rua, along with other pilgrims, to don raingear again. I only needed it for the last 100m or so as I approached my accommodation.

I'm staying in O Pedrouzo tonight at Pension Maribel. I have a lovely room to myself, with afternoon sun streaming in drying my handwashing. After an initial bundle-drop, I sat in the bathtub for ages before heading to the shops for food.

Here's a quick update on my Camino friends. Becky started her flight home today. Elvira is still walking, with about 2 weeks to go. Helen, Jackie and Steve made it to Santiago today, just in time to to celebrate Jackie's 60th birthday. I'm hoping to catch up with them and others over the next few days. I have 4 nights booked at a lovely place near the cathedral.

I am very excited about reaching Santiago de Compostela tomorrow. Plan an earlyish start but can only go one speed, so will most likely arrive about 2pm. I am VERY weary... my feet will be glad that they can finally rest.