Vilacha to Portos

Friday 3 June 2016 - Day 37

Vilacha to Portos - 21.5km

A lovely peaceful night, even with the creakiest bunks and floorboards on earth. Away just before 7am after a muesli bar. Our host offered breakfast but not until 7.30...an early riser, not. Once again I enjoyed my favourite part of the day, walking through a sleeping village... today, in thick fog. I left Vilacha and headed towards Portomarin.

The approach was via a long bridge over the Embalse de Belesar/ Belesar Reservoir. I didn't visit the town but evidently the main church was rebuilt after being shifted when the original site was flooded for reservoir. The surroundings looked mysterious in the fog.

This morning's walk, through both forest and farmland, was a long one before the first cafe, and without much breakfast I was pretty hungry by the time Gonzar appeared.

A funny incident happened here, when I could hear a lady shouting in Spanish at a group passing by. I thought that maybe someone had stopped for quick wee and she was chasing them off. By the time I arrived she had baled up a Canadian lady demanding that she walk by a different route. Between us, we took her ranting to mean that food was this other way, so together we took off down the little track, with the little Spanish lady hot on our heels. Eventually we came to a cafe that was packed with pilgrims, so stopped for second breakfast. Met up again with Dorothea.

Last night Gordon, our host, had mentioned that the 'powers that be', obviously with some financial encouragement, had done some re-routing in the area, cutting out a few traditional albergues and cafes and including some new ones. Needless to say there were some miffed folk... and I think this was one of those situations.

As we went to leave, there was another newer looking cafe on the 'main' route as we left Gonzar. What a little terrier this lady was, lurking at the track junction, chasing pilgrims onto the old route and towards what is perhaps her family's cafe. Wonder if she does it every day.

I fell into step with the Canadian woman, Becky, and we were soon joined by Frank, from Nottingham. We made a companionable group and stayed together through the various villages and changing scenery. Both Becky and Frank commenced in St Jean, though Becky had missed a bit in the middle. She's travelling with her sister-In-law who can no longer walk due to plantar fascia problems, she buses or taxis ahead each day.

Had another stop for sustenance, at Ventas de Naron, with hordes of other pilgrims. One funny sight here was a lovely looking young woman sitting with a HUGE beer and cigarette... lots of smoking here on the Camino. Bar signs are always a welcome sight.

As we were leaving town we were privileged to see a bagpiper playing in front of a pilgrim monument. It was wonderful and we all stopped to listen... what a treat!

I must admit, that I found it difficult to get going after this break. My cough is getting better and my blisters are all pretty good now, though I still dress the more recent ones every day. My burden now, is a sore spot at the front of my right ankle. I think this problem happened after hobbling with my latest blister a few days ago. I plodded the last 7km to my accommodation... a big thank you to Becky and Frank for the great conversation, as it kept me going.

I intended to stop at a small place called Eirexe, but last night Gordon suggested I walk an extra 2km to A Paso Formiga (Ant's Way) at Portos. He rang and booked me in. It is lovely here. I'm in a room of 3 real beds...so far I have a male Canadian room-mate. Food looks great and the setting lovely.

Another good day, though not as scenic as yesterday. Heaps of pilgrims on the way now, but I continue to look to myself and what inspires me. Four days of walking left...hope my sore ankle holds out.

Just had a great catch-up and chat with Judy, a nurse from Canada. I met her on my first night at Orisson, and then again in Hospital del Orbigo. She stopped for a big beer and hamburger dinner. It's nearly 6pm and she still has 5.5km to walk!