Columbrianos to Villafranca del Bierzo

Saturday 28 May 2016 - Day 31

Columbrianos to Villafranca del Bierzo - 19km

What a tough day, lots of rain and quite cold. Knew it would be wet after some overnight rain. My dreams of having the bunkroom to myself last night were crushed when 3 Spanish guys turned up just as I was heading to bed. Not a word of English between them. They dumped their packs, ate dinner and then turned in. After hearing my barky cough, one gave me a couple of natural throat lozenges, which were fantastic. Tried to buy some today, without success.

Rugged myself up for the weather and took off under threatening skies. The sunlight on the mountains, and low cloud, made for sensational viewing. Not feeling good today, I think my cough/cold is starting to wear me down a bit.

For the first hour or so of today I didn't see another soul, walking along a quiet country road with vegie gardens on each side. Not sure who gets to eat all these vegies, but it's not the pilgrims. My body is crying out for some lightly steamed mixed vegies with a dob of butter and a sprinkle of salt. Mmmmmm!

Passed through the small village of Fuentes Nuevas and the township of Camponaraya, where I stopped for the cafe con leche and toast, a €2.50 pilgrim special. I started to see pilgrims passing by as I was eating. All new and different people again today. I'll end up in the uncharitable mouth book, but you can sort-of tell that many of them are newbies who have just started their walk.

Into vineyard country today, with every available space packed with vines just starting their growth. An abundance of rambling roses today, too. Some vineyards had rose bushes at the end of some of the rows.

Started to rain steadily as I approached the town of Cacabelos. I would have liked to explore a bit here but these old parts of Spanish towns seem to have no awnings or shop fronts to shelter under. Found an ATM to replenish my cash flow before moving on.

Rain eased and just on the edge of town I spotted an large and interesting display, which I stopped to investigate. It was an old wine press.

There was also a description of how it worked.

From here it was lots more vineyards. The way was initially alongside the road, where I spotted some cherry trees in amongst the vines.

Just after Pieros, I took the more remote and slightly longer route. Slogging along the main road isn't my idea of fun. Lots more vineyards and a bit of muddy track. It started to rain again and by the time I reached the outskirts of Villafranca del Bierzo, my destination for the day, I had a distinct drowned rat appearance happening. The rain was so heavy, and the wind was blowing it at a 45° angle, that I was wet right through my raincoat and I was COLD. Was in full wet weather gear but didn't add the poncho on top, which I should have. Pack was wet too, even with cover on.

The cobbled streets were flowing like rivers as I negotiated my way through town. Found an outdoor shop as I was scurrying along and went in to buy new rubbers for the ends of my walking poles. I didn't want to traipse in water, as I was dripping everywhere, so stood in the doorway calling out 'hola' until a lady came to see what I wanted. I just left the money at the door, too. Found a cafe for a hot drink and then went to find my albergue.

Caught up with June and Joe again as I crossed the bridge. They'd been hiding out in a cafe for over 2 hours to avoid the rain. A few kilometres still to walk for them today, though they were tempted by the dry look of my lodgings.

I was elated to find Albergue de la Piedra, and even happier when I was shown my nice private room. This is one that Tessa booked for me the other day, using her fluent Spanish. It has a French door that opens onto a tiny balcony, with a lovely view to a man-made cascade of some sort. The sound from this is amazingly lovely. Having a room to myself is €24 well spent, especially considering my bad cough.

Late lunch at a posh restaurant where soup, beef stew and a vino tinto went down a treat. Dinner was a few snacks from the supermercado. Really happy to meet up with the lovely USA college kids again, as they are staying here. They are loving their experiences.

It's still daylight outside and it's raining again. Looks like wet weather gear for tomorrow. Into bed shortly. Blisters still hurt but I'm managing my 20ish kms each day. Think I'm finally getting into the swing of the whole pilgrim thing...it's only taken me a month.