Carrion de los Condes to San Nicolas del Real Camino

Wednesday 18 May 2016 - Day 21

Carrion de los Condes to San Nicolas del Real Camino - horse carriage 17km, walk 15km

Woke with a bit of anticipation today, as we were hopeful of a horse carriage ride that had been planned two nights ago. One of our hosts suggested it and had rung to book. Adrianna, a Brazilian lady travelling with Mary-Jane and Chris, from the USA, took on the liaison duties. We'd been sharing time with these three fun ladies over the last few days. Being in Spain, we weren't sure we were actually booked, or that it would even happen.

Helen, Steve, Jackie and I met the others at a cafe and headed out towards the meeting point. I always love the morning walk through quiet towns and villages.

Oh happy days! Jesus turned up, and Adrianna worked it all out with him. Eventually, Paco showed up with his two beautiful horses and our carriage. I was really excited! There were 12 of us in total.

Our horse and carriage ride took us 17 kms along a lonely country road from Carrion de los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza. As we went along we could see pilgrims stretched out as far as the eye could see in front and behind us. The wildflowers were stunning.

Some pilgrims stopped to photograph us as we went by. The majority smiled and waved but there were a few disgruntled pilgrims...maybe they thought we were cheating. One cheeky guy ran his hardest, pack and all, and actually caught us, hauled himself up, waved to his friends and stayed with us for about 20 minutes, before hopping off again. There were a couple of welcome cafe stops along this remote part of the way. At Calzadilla de la Crueza we paid our €15 each and stopped for some lunch. What a unique experience!

Helen, Jackie, Steve and I headed off along the way as it edged the highway towards Ledigos and on to Terradillos de los Templarios. My legs and feet felt rested after our morning off.

Had a not so nice pilgrim encounter long this section. Steve and Jackie were walking together about 20m ahead of Helen and me. We were side by side, and I stepped aside to let another pilgrim pass. Helen didn't hear him and apologised as he passed. His reply was that he'd rather be ON the way not IN the way and that true pilgrims walked singly not side by side...really, what a wanker! He moved ahead and did pretty much the same to Steve and Jackie but he also lit a cigar and wafted smoke all over them as he went by, continuing his tirade.

Continued on to Moratinos where we stopped for some shoes off time and a cool drink. Across the road was what looked like hobbit doorways and I had to explore. These underground chambers, called bodegas, were used for food and wine storage. Some were in good condition but others were caved in and unusable.

With only 3km to our albergue, spirits were high as we strode off towards San Nicolas del Real Camino. The way was scenic, with views to distant snow covered peaks.

Basil, from the USA, had told us of his liking for walking in the late afternoon and evening due to there being less pilgrims on the way. We found this to be true, as we saw no one else for this section and it was only mid-afternoon.

Our accommodation at the family run Albergue Laganares was wonderful. It felt homely and, after combining our washing to make a load, we spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing in the lush back garden. We even had a chat with Basil when he appeared for a rest before setting out about 6.30pm for his final 6.5km of the day.

Had a lovely meal and a good sleep in our room for 4. All others staying the night were unfamiliar pilgrims...odd how that sometimes happens.

Passed the half-way mark today.