Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga

Tuesday 24 May 2016 - Day 27

Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga - 17km

Up early and organised to walk. Had breakfast at out albergue... toast and jam, with juice. An American couple were cooking bacon and eggs. Once again, it was lovely to walk through a sleeping village as we left.

I said my goodbyes to Helen, Jackie and Steve as they were planning a longer walk today. An amazing solo walk through cultivated fields, along country roads and tracks. Beautiful morning light as the sun rose off to my right, with the not quite full moon still high on my left.

Passed through the small villages of Villares de Orbigo and Santibanez de Valdeiglesia. Both still very quiet except for lots of trucks leaving the second village just as I did. Pulled my buff over my mouth and nose to filter out the road dust. Encountered these trucks another two times over the next 6.5km.

One thing I noticed today was the small amount of pilgrims on the way. My guidebook showed the track I took to be the route, but I think most elected to take the shorter alternate way bedside the main road. Those pilgrims really missed out, though in some places the track was tricky to find.

My favourite stop was in the middle of nowhere, at la Casa de los Dioses/ Abode of the Gods where I met Susie, an Aussie. She, along with her Spanish partner David, provide respite for weary pilgrims. Everything is free from delicious fruit to freshly baked cakes... there was even some Vegemite. They live simply with no running water or electricity...wonderful folk.

After a long stop, lovely chat and a few tears here, I headed onwards. My path met the highway path just before San Justo de la Vega, where I stopped briefly to rest my aching feet. Still not heaps of pilgrims.

My blistered feet really provided me with a challenge today, and I walked in great pain. In fact, on the outskirts of Astorga, I greeted a passing local, elderly lady who stopped and told me I needed to stop in Astorga and not walk any more. I must have looked terrible! Even with my limited Spanish I got her message loud and clear.

Had a light sprinkle of rain as I arrived in Astorga in the middle of market day. Rang Jackie and was happy to find them still in town, as Helen needed some dental work and Steve needed shoe repairs. Had lunch with them, along with Tessa and Miles, a British couple whom I'd met with Becky in Leon.

Had an albergue booking which I cancelled, as Becky had messaged me and offered me a bed in a 'nice' place. She had a long walk to get to Astorga, so I sheltered from the rain in a cafe until she arrived.

Had a fun reunion and a super room at Casa de Tepa. Did some catching up, relaxing and forward planning. A bit later, Becky and I joined Tessa and Miles to visit the cathedral and Gaudi palace Shared a fantastic meal, before collapsing with exhaustion. Great to share with Becky again.