Villafranca del Bierzo to Ruitelan

Sunday 29 May 2016 - Day 32

Villafranca del Bierzo to Ruitelan - 18.5km

A poor sleep last night due to my raspy cough... lucky I had my own room. Overcast, but hopeful of less rain than yesterday. Lovely breakfast at my albergue, including cereal! Low cloud on the hills as I joined the pilgrim parade.

I had decided to walk an alternate, slightly longer, route today, but changed my mind this morning. Luckily this was the case, as I really didn't have 'it' today. Feet hurt, blisters felt like stabbing knives, left shoulder was achy and right ankle a bit dodgy. Have had no shoulder or ankle pain before, so out of the blue for those. To be honest, I'm feeling a bit grim and achy all over today.

Walked alongside the road today, not a busy one, but I criss-crossed it many times and even went in and around the motorway flyovers.

Also walked beside the rio Valcarce, crossing it many times. It was beautiful and recent rain meant a rushing flow.

Passed through a number of small villages, each with its own character. Rain did start, and it fell quite steadily. Today, I had my poncho ready and was more comfortable, except for nearly losing it as I tried to get it out of its tiny pouch. I pushed it and it flew out, over the fence and down an embankment towards the river. I downed pack, climbed the fence and lowered myself down to retrieve it. Thank goodness I'm still reasonably agile.

Approaching one village I spotted a really lovely tree and took a photo.

Imagine my surprise to see I wasn't the only one that thought it was special. This sign was at its base.

Stopped at Trabadelo for second breakfast and shared a table with Christina, from Hungary.

I was feeling very tired and achy by this time, and it was an effort to keep plodding on. Signage kept my spirits up.

In La Portela de Valcarce I stopped at a small church that, according to my pilgrim stamp, was called Nativitas Sancti Iohannis Baptistae...John the Baptist. For €1, I lit a candle and thought about everyone back at home...and not for the first or last time, wondered what I'm doing here.

The way continued along the edge of the road, alongside the river. I had a good laugh at this sign, then though it wouldn't be such a bad idea.

I wonder if these beauties have anything to do with horses to O'Cebreiro.

I was really relieved to reach Ruitelan, and my albergue Pequeno Potala. A fairly officious (music and breakfast at 6.30am and no one allowed up before then!), but welcoming, man registered me in. I'm in a bunk room of 10, so hopefully I can control my cough. I thought my last few albergues had low bottom bunks but this one might take the prize... might have to slide sideways into bed tonight.

Managed to stagger back down the road for a light lunch and am now relaxing with ice on my dicky ankle. Dinner here is supposed to be excellent...looking forward to that. Once again, all unfamiliar pilgrims today...things are a bit lonely at present, shed a few tears this afternoon.

Hobbled along the road to the small church and sat alone with my lit candle. Indulged in some self-pity, cried a bit and thought of home, until a lady came to shoo me out so she could lock the church for the night. A big day ahead tomorrow!