Los Arcos to Logrono

Sunday 8 May 2016 - Day 11

Los Arcos to Logrono - 20km + bus 9.5km

A really tough one today... hilly, rainy, cold and windy...and more foot problems. Good room mates and an okay sleep but woke feeling really flat and feet painful before starting. Had good breakfast at the albergue and left Los Arcos under grey skies and drizzle.

The 6.8km walk to the first stop was undulating, and Becky and I alternated between chatting and solo walking. Passed, and were passed, by lots of folk we knew. Stopped at a small shop in Sansol, a beautiful village. Bought a banana and hazelnuts and chatted with other pilgrims.

There was one very steep kilometre to the next tiny village of Torres del Rio.

Stopped at the amazing Iglesia de Santo Sepulcro, a 12thC octagonal shaped church linked to the Knights Templar. Very small and simple inside but worth the €1entry.

From here the way became very hilly, with a number of road crossings. We made the mistake of not purchasing food at the last town, and had to rely on our snacks to sustain us. Lots of poppies along the track and many wildflowers and herbs...rosemary and thyme. Also saw asparagus growing wild. Crops now olives and a grain I couldn't identify. Many vineyards, too.

My feet were really aching by this stage and each footfall sent jarring pain up my legs. Stopped for a foot break.

The wind really picked up and it was bitterly cold as we made our way into Viana. There were many short stretches where the way was along the edge of the highway. Viana was in view for long while before we arrived. A very steep hill led to the old part of town and the main square beside Iglesia de Santa Maria. The church bells were clanging away and we could hear music before we saw crowds of people filling the roadway ahead.

The crowds were due to the annual First Communion Sunday. The whole area was thronged with families and all the bar/ cafes were full. Becky and I were hungry for some real food, but had to resort to reheated pizza from a little supermarket. Even though it was freezing in the icy wind we sat people watching. The little girls were in full length bridal frocks and the boys in suits and somewhat military outfits.

Our day ended sitting for a frozen hour awaiting the bus to Logrono. We met Tony, from Belgium and then a lovely local guy, Alfredo, gave us advice whilst practising his English. He was so kind, when we arrived he walked us to our accommodation. Tony insisted on shouting him a drink and we sat chatting for ages. Turns out he has a burning wish to visit the south of the USA, especially New Orleans. Imagine his delight when Becky said she lives 2 hours from there...meant to be, he took her contact details. A really kind soul.

Paid for a leg massage (nice) and treated awful new blister between first two toes. Happy to have our own room tonight...stuff spread everywhere. Shared bathroom, with oddly exposed shower cubicles...at least not unisex, so no surprise visions of men wrapped in tiny travel towels and nothing else. Got caught out here, with the toilet paper rolls being OUTSIDE of each cubicle! Another amazing city full of vibrant activity.