Orisson to Burguete

Friday 29 April 2016 - Day 2

Orisson to Burguete - 20km

Woke to the news today, that Kay has a broken fibula and would be heading home. I felt so sad for her, as I know how much effort went into our preparations and how excited she was to walk Camino again. A few bouts of self-indulgent tears on my part during today, as I contemplated the change in my Camino and the fears that went with that. Was happy to know that Kay would be waiting in Burguete for a final night together.

Last night saw a shared meal for around 40 pilgrims from all over the world. We sat beside a Swedish couple and there were folk from Iceland, Korea, USA, Canada, Ireland and even a mother and son combo from Brissie. I slept well in our 10 bunk dormitory, though Beate and Elvira complained about the snoring from the chap on my top bunk. Another beautiful sunny day as we took off. Here's me with Elvira just up the road from Orisson.

The magnificent scenery and relentless steep uphill slog helped to take my mind off my of my 'poor me' feelings, though I admit I had many episodes of quiet crying as I walked. Many pilgrims on the road, mostly new faces, folk who must have left St Jean Pied de Port before first light. My first stop was at Pic D'Orisson and the statue of the Vierge d'Orisson, the first of many Marian shrines along the way. While I rested here I tended to two blisters forming on the insides of my heels. Can't work out why this is happening, as I'm not usually a 'blister' person and my shoes are well worn in...maybe puffy feet still from my long flight.

From here the road continued upward, some parts quite steep and others not so bad. For much of the morning the way was along a bitumen road, though I tried to stick to the grassy edges where possible. Lots of sightings, both yesterday and today, of Griffon Vultures soaring on thermals.

I was happy when we left the bitumen, not long after a stop at small van where I bought a banana and had my credentials stamped... the last French stamp, as a sign advised. This enterprising young guy did good business in the middle of nowhere.

Eventually I crossed back into Spain, the border being a cattle grid. This part of the walk was through lovely forest with thick leaves underfoot... felt like walking on a sponge, with feet disappearing almost up to the ankle. I met up again with Elvira and Beate at a fairly modern looking emergency shelter. From here we could see snow covered mountains in the distance.

It was another slog up to the Col de Lepoeder, the high point of the pilgrim's Pyrennes crossing. Snowy mountain views, and the climb, were both breath-taking. Started getting very tired, especially after the 4km steep and rocky downhill into Roncesvalles. I shared this part of the walk with Richard, a lovely American fellow. He was great company as we passed through amazing forest. Still had 3km to get to Burguete where Kay was eagerly awaiting some company...a lovely FLAT section through forest with a witch- burning history.

So nice to have our own room, with a great hot shower, at Hotel Burguete. This is where Ernest Hemingway stayed in the 1920s. Washed my clothes by having them underfoot as I showered. So lovely to see Kay. She was in remarkably good spirits, considering her situation and the incredible pain she was in. We shared dinner with Beate and Elvira and then collapsed into bed.

Kay's plans are to get the train to Madrid where she'll spend 2 days before flying home. Beate, who came on Camino to catch up with Kay, will join her and then hopefully find me again after the weekend. I will push on as planned.