Burguete to Zubiri

Saturday 30 April 2016 - Day 3

Burguete to Zubiri - 19.5km

What a difference a day makes! After our first 2 days of sensational weather, today came as a bit of a shock. We had a very chilly start in steady rain, rigged out in rain-pants, beanie, gloves and poncho.

After a teary farewell with Kay, Elvira and I headed off to join the parade of pilgrims that had been passing our front door since before first light. Burguete is a beautiful village.

Since my arrival I've been hearing 'cowbells' clunking. Imagine my surprise to pass a field with 4 horses, each wearing an enormous clanking bell.

Today was incredibly tough. Added to the emotions of Kay's departure and my body being physically weary (and 2 big blisters), the weather provided plenty of challenges. We had some sun but also plenty of rain, cold winds, snow and even hail. Conditions changed rapidly, a few times I thought I might become airborne, as my poncho filled with wind. This would have been a tough day to be starting out on the Pyrennes crossing.

There were lots of pilgrims today and many more cycling pilgrims. We walked through beautiful forest where the deciduous trees were starting their new growth... lovely soft green leaves.

Our way took us through a couple of interesting villages, some with buildings from the 1700s. At Espinal, Elvira and I visited the church Igledia de San Bartolome...very beautiful artwork on the domed ceiling. The church bells were ringing as we approached. We picked up some bread and cheese in this village.

A small cafe at Viskarret provided a welcome respite from the rain. We joined other pilgrims in the warmth...stayed for ages. We also dropped in at Corazon Puro, our first night's accommodation, to get a stamp in our pilgrim credentials. Linzoain, with many interesting old buildings, saw us climb steeply to more beautiful forest.

Finally, about 3pm, we found a relatively dry spot, in a bit of sunlight to eat our bagettes and cheese...delicious.

The afternoon's walk into Zubiri felt like a never ending story. It included a long and steep downhill over mud and slippery exposed rock... in the rain. Had more than enough by the time we arrived at our albergue...the best yet. Called Suseia, we were greeted with a welcome beer, by Alexei, our lovely young hospitalero. A towel was provided for the shower, and lovely comfy chairs. Our dinner was amazing...the best ensalada mixta ever.

Met lots of varied and interesting people tonight. My favourite being a young Japanese man who walked all the way from SJPP today. This took us 3 days! Writing this in a comfy chair listening to folk at the dining table chatting in Spanish. Body, especially feet and lower legs, very tired . Blisters bad and feeling exhuasted, but also elated. Hoping for a good sleep.