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Saturday 4 June 2016 - Day 38
Portos to Melide - 20km
Last night was great at Portos. There was a €10 dinner, with six of us eating. There were 2 German men (Olaf and Christian), an Italian couple and David, from Canada. The meal was excellent. David had set his sleeping gear up near mine, but as no one else came to stay, he moved into the next room, which meant we had a room each...nice.
I was close to last leaving at 6.45 this morning. I pretty much had the way to myself for the 5.5km into Palas de Rei, where I stopped for breakfast. There were numerous little villages along this stretch. I had a dog chase me when I stopped to take a photo... sorted it out pretty smartly.
The track went through some lovely forest again today, though there were many other pilgrims along the section leaving Palas de Rei.
In places, the track was eroded up to a metre below the wall/fence line. In others, water was running along the track.
I stopped for a second breakfast and sat with Olaf and Christian from last night's accommodation. This section of the way seemed to have an over-abundance of eating places. Often these cafes appear seemingly in the middle of nowhere.
Most villages have their own small church, though these are usually closed. If they are open, I always stop in for a look. At a medieval bridge I encountered Tony, whom I'd first met while awaiting the Logrono bus, in Viana. He kindly took my photo.
Saw plantations of eucalypt trees during today. Evidently I'll see more over the next few days.
I had been listening to some music today, but still greeted people if they passed by. I was really delighted to turn to say hello to an approaching pilgrim when I saw it was Michel, the gentle Dutchman that Becky and I met way back at Cizur Menor. I had not seen him since a breakfast stop at Sansol on Day 11. It was a joyous reunion and we stopped at the next cafe for a catch-up.
This establishment had the local delicacy, pulpo/octopus, with a guy out the front advertising.
Michel and I ate and chatted for ages. He related some amazing spiritual experiences he's had while on Camino. He even stumbled upon a shaman/alchemist fellow's establishment a few day's ago, and stayed a night there. He said that a young Scandinavian woman there at the same time, actually abandoned her Camino and said she would stay there for the whole summer. Wow!
Before I left, a table of Aussies made me try their pulpo a la galega, which is octopus with paprika. It was soft but just seemed fishy to me. At least I can say that I tried.
In Melide now, and for the first time I'm trying the municipal albergue...I've been so spoilt staying at the smaller private ones. This one has no doors on the shower cubicles... and I've been complaining about not having hooks behind doors. Have a lovely Icelandic girl on my top bunk and a young Irish-looking Spanish girl beside. It's a big room, and it's very cold. For the first time, I gave my bed a spray for bedbugs.
Had a great day, but feeling a bit flat and upset in the tummy this evening. Might have a very simple dinner and hit the bed early. It always amazes me that some people get to an alberge and sleep all afternoon...and then appear to sleep all night too. Maybe they'll be the ones rustling plastic bags before sunrise tomorrow.
Today I pondered on whether I'm sad or glad that my Camino is coming to the end. That pondering will continue tomorrow.