Rabanal del Camino to El Acebo

Thursday 26 May 2016 - Day 29

Rabanal del Camino to El Acebo -16.5km

Today started early with a number of pilgrims packing up and leaving in the dark. I took off about 6.45 and walked out of my albergue at the same time as a British couple walked out of theirs next door. I met June and Joe on my first day, when I shared a scenic lunch spot with them. They reappeared about a week or so ago.

Have a very tickly throat this morning. Blast those coughers from a few nights ago. I feel okay but have a raspy Carlotta vibe happening with my voice.

This morning, I climbed to the highest point on the Camino Frances, Alto Altae Mayor (1515m). The track was rough and, in places, very muddy. In the distance were snow-dotted peaks and many wind turbines, with lots of big power lines heading off across the hillsides. Wildflowers were abundant and they glowed in the early morning light.

After 5.5km I reached the tiny village of Foncebadon, where I stopped for breakfast. This village looked very neglected, surviving on passing pilgrims. This shows what the track was like.

While there I collected my precious trip folder that I had carelessly left in my room in Astorga. Miles and Tessa very kindly brought it along for me, and I picked it up from their accommodation.

The breakfast cafe was interesting, with dreadful coffee and hot water in pump-action thermos flasks. The man serving was a bit gruff, but I was elated to find some self serve cereal hidden away at the end of the table... a bargain at €1.

From there, the way continued up to the famous La Cruz de Ferro. From a distance I could see heaps of people crowding around. I realised it was a tour bus group, luckily they had moved on by the time I got there.

This was a special moment for me, as I had been carrying 3 items to leave there. I had a small stone belonging to my mum, a small mandala colouring-in done by Elaine, my friend who passed away at Christmas, and also the shell given to me in Belorado a couple of weeks ago by Luca, a young Italian man. He asked me to place it at the cross for him. I stayed there for a long time. There were three security guards milling about this area.

Tessa and Miles joined me here and we walked on together. I had a wonderful day with them, hitting the mobile cafe at the high point of Alto Altar Mayor (1515m) and then starting our descent of the often steep and very rough track. At a very picturesque spot we stopped and I played the recording, from my Mum's funeral, of my nephew Alex playing 'Stranger on the Shore' on his clarinet. It was a special moment... another pilgrim also stopped to listen and thanked us.

Stop to check out the albergue at Manjarin. It was very quirky... not sure what it would be like to stay in, basic and rustic come to mind.

Suddenly, the village of El Acebo came onto view but it was a steep and rocky descent to get there.

Tessa and Miles saw me to my albergue, Meson El Acebo, and then decided they liked the look of it for lunch. We ate in the back garden with wonderous mountain views. We had a feast of hommos, vegies (at last) and Santiago tart...yum! Not as good as Kay's, though. Tessa, who speaks fluent Spanish offered to ring ahead at a few places to book me in...so lovely. I was sad to wave them off, but they still had a long way to go.

My next job was to shower and get some washing done. I was happy to pay €7 to a little man to attend to that for me, as things were getting a bit on the nose. I was cold all afternoon, as my one pair of long pants, and my fleece, went to the laundry. Just before dinner, and once my warm gear was dry, I had a stroll through this amazing village.

My last story of the day was my dinner, which I ate with Luis, a Spanish man with no English. Somehow, with my tiny bit of Spanish we managed to have a conversation of sorts all through our meal. He even scored us some special liquors at no extra cost...it pays to know a local. Once in our dormitory, he gave me some gel for sore feet. A lady also gave me some throat lozenges for my 'barking' cough... maybe thinking about her quality of sleep. Starting to feel not so good, I think this bug has a real hold on me now.